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Post by dusty20 on Jul 6, 2016 14:28:32 GMT -5
I have a tree split down the middle and half is over a power line. I asked if they would take it down and they said no. I asked what would happen if it knocked out power and they said they would come hook it back up... figured they would be more interested in the pm than that.
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Post by dusty20 on Jun 30, 2016 11:27:41 GMT -5
On the price point I bought several of mine at dunhams with a 20% off coupon and they weren't too bad still about $35. My brother fell last year climbing a tree and he's still paying off the hospital bill. After that I bought lifelines and lineman's belt.
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Post by dusty20 on Jun 30, 2016 11:24:26 GMT -5
The problem with buying the bulk rope is that the break strength is 300lb but if you fall from a short distance your 230lb isn't 230lb anymore. I also had a problem finding rope that had the proper limit for the prusic knot as I believe it needs to be around half the diameter (been a while since I looked into it) of the main line. I started looking at the arborist sites for their rope as it is much stronger than the box stores stuff and found i could buy the preassembled stuff for about the same price if not less.
Another thing I am curious from others is the life of a life line? I believe they are only rated for 2 years worth of use right?
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Post by dusty20 on Jun 8, 2016 18:32:52 GMT -5
One thing I would question is what type of joist is it? My last place had the fancy engineered joists which are great for supporting a load that is sitting on it but I don't know if id hang anything from a single one. They are basically a 2x3 (maybe?) On top and a 2x3 on the bottom and have a vertical OSB piece to make an I-beam. I didn't look overly close but I would be worried about pulling the bottom 2x3 off of the OSB vertical. I should note that it was one of the room over garage types so if it's just a single story gsrage I wouldn't worry. I would think you would pull the threads out before causing too much harm else where.
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Post by dusty20 on Jun 8, 2016 18:29:22 GMT -5
One thing I would question is what type of joist is it? My last place had the fancy engineered joists which are great for supporting a load that is sitting on it but I don't know if id hang anything from a single one. They are basically a 2x3 (maybe?) On top and a 2x3 on the bottom and have a vertical OSB piece to make an I-beam. I didn't look overly close but I would be worried about pulling the bottom 2x3 off of the OSB vertical.
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Post by dusty20 on Apr 7, 2016 16:16:11 GMT -5
On my land when am I able to take racoons and with what restrictions?
Are the regulations similar to Coyotes for land owners? How about the lines in the DNR book about taking raccoon out of season if it is causing issues with plants etc... What designates a destructive raccoon family?
This is what the eregs says:
Raccoon, Opossum
Nov. 8, 2015 – Jan. 31, 2016
No limit
Dog Running (Raccoon, Opossum) --- does this simply mean dog can chase the coon but you are not able to kill them? Feb. 1, 2015 – Oct. 25, 2015
Not applicable
Feb. 1, 2016 – Oct. 25, 2016
Thanks for all your help!
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Post by dusty20 on Mar 3, 2016 0:30:21 GMT -5
One thing I've been doing is wearing an old pair of dress socks since they are thin then I put a pair of toe warmers on each foot. One on top and one on bottom then I cover that up with thick wool socks. I made sure to get boots with plenty of room for all that with a little toe wiggle room to boot. I got LaCross boots that are I think 7.5 or 8mm neoprene. So far I've been pretty happy.
Those drugs can really mess with your body temp, a buddy of mine can't keep warm at all and ended up breaking down and getting a buddy heater. He's nice enough to send me a text saying it's about 80 in his stand he build while I'm scraping ice off my tree stand ...
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Post by dusty20 on Mar 1, 2016 20:51:16 GMT -5
Well I ended up being able to look up the purchase on the Dick's sporting goods Scorecard. Once I got the proof of purchase I had no issue getting a RMA from wild game. Sending it back tomorrow. Lesson learned always keep the receipt, no issues with proof of purchase. PITA up until that point.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 28, 2016 21:17:32 GMT -5
I was that way with glasses. I always thought my vision wasn't that bad and that I was only slightly more blury than typical. I tried on my gf at the times glasses and realized it was like looking at the world in HD! I'm 28 now and can't believe I didn't wear them for the first 25. I was even a goalie in hockey my whole life and never wore them.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 26, 2016 19:59:16 GMT -5
Any chance you could post a general location too. I'm in Northeast IN and up through last weekend still had antlered deer. Not sure about this week though.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 21, 2016 13:37:31 GMT -5
The only thing that seems to be really appetizing about deer specific is they are claiming to handle browse pressure a lot better. I've not used standard seed before but they supposedly aren't able to rebound as well.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 20, 2016 23:18:28 GMT -5
So now for a different question: are deer specific seeds worth it? Is it better to buy whitetail institute, eagle seed, etc vs buying an ag seed?
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 20, 2016 23:08:10 GMT -5
Those are pretty sweet. Still not exactly giving them away ha. I know. That's what has been stopping me from getting one. I would love to create some sort of budget food plot tool for guys that are doing up to an acre without tractors or atvs. I'm lucky enough to have a big tractor at my disposal but up until this year I just had a mower and trimmer. To start with nothing and get to the point of being able to plant a food plot is too many thousands of dollars to think about...
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 20, 2016 19:45:58 GMT -5
Yea you do the same. If you lived closer I would tell you we can swap and use my tractor and your planter.
Have you planted the power plot before?
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 20, 2016 18:07:29 GMT -5
Dusty, I am also planting 1.5ac of "Power Plant". I'm going to cut existing growth low and then spray it to kill it off. Then I will disk it, fertilize and disk again at 2". Then I'll seed it and use a real drag harrow to cover up. I'm buying a disk, 8' wide harrow and boom sprayer. I will be more than happy to help you in anyway that I can. What part of the state do you live in? I'm up in the Northeast. About half hour from Michigan and about 10 minutes from Ohio. It was really nice today so I was out in the yard and talked to a neighbor that has 40 acres behind me. Sounds like he has a few tools at his disposal so between some of his and my tractor we should be able to get both our properties ready this year! There is a company that I've worked with in the past for work called A&L Great Lakes and they do soil samples. I've already talked with a guy there who is going to do my samples and really step me through what fertilizer, where to get it and how to best apply it and when. Getting pretty excited about getting this going.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 19, 2016 23:38:01 GMT -5
Those are pretty sweet. Still not exactly giving them away ha.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 19, 2016 12:31:16 GMT -5
Every time you till soil, you uncover dormant weed seeds in the soil. Tilling disturbs them, gets them near surface and they grow. It gets progressively better and less weedy if you work, and deal with the weeds in the same plot year after year, but they never all go away. That's why farmers using conventional planting methods like roundup ready crops. They can spray after crops emerge, killing the weeds but not the crop. With no-till you kill the surface weeds, then just knife your seeds into the ground with minimal soil disturbance. Good way to go, if you have the equipment to do it. It doesn't always work. On some "virgin" plots you just about have to do some cultivation to get the sod broken up, loosened up and leveled. Keep in mind this is food plotting, you're not farming for a living. It's not the end of the world if you get some weeds or a 70% crop. That's still a bunch of good food for the wildlife that they didn't otherwise have. It's a fun hobby and you will learn as you go. Again, I would recommend anyone new to habitat work check out the QDMA website and read their forums and articles. Tons of good information their. That is what I'm excited about, it's a new hobby that I can try to perfect over time. For all I know it could turn out to be a disaster but it should be fun! Not that I need an excuse to be outside but any chance I get to do something productive (hopefully) makes it all the better.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 19, 2016 12:28:04 GMT -5
Just a word on those no till planters from soil office. If you're not pretty familiar with this type of equipment, they are rather complicated and won't be real easy for the average guy to set up and use. I recruited my farmer neighbor the one time I sued one. Maybe I'll just make one ha. I am a mechanical engineer in my M-F life, can't be that hard. I can't find one to rent and if I did it sounds like I won't be able to figure out how to use it!
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 19, 2016 12:25:24 GMT -5
Check with the NRCS office in your county. They might have planters to rent. I've read that, I just looked and it appears I don't have an office within 30 miles or so of my place. Any other places rent stuff like that?
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 19, 2016 8:42:18 GMT -5
Every time you till soil, you uncover dormant weed seeds in the soil. Tilling disturbs them, gets them near surface and they grow. It gets progressively better and less weedy if you work, and deal with the weeds in the same plot year after year, but they never all go away. That's why farmers using conventional planting methods like roundup ready crops. They can spray after crops emerge, killing the weeds but not the crop. With no-till you kill the surface weeds, then just knife your seeds into the ground with minimal soil disturbance. Good way to go, if you have the equipment to do it. It doesn't always work. On some "virgin" plots you just about have to do some cultivation to get the sod broken up, loosened up and leveled. Keep in mind this is food plotting, you're not farming for a living. It's not the end of the world if you get some weeds or a 70% crop. That's still a bunch of good food for the wildlife that they didn't otherwise have. It's a fun hobby and you will learn as you go. Again, I would recommend anyone new to habitat work check out the QDMA website and read their forums and articles. Tons of good information their. Thanks, I will check it out!
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