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Post by dusty20 on Feb 18, 2016 23:19:45 GMT -5
What I would love to do is no till drill but I don't have one, no idea where my local CO op is and can't see buying one for now.
Are you guys saying if I can get the current stuff out through burn or through spraying and Whatever else I could do to remove the current but do not touch the bed I won't have the weed problems compared to turning the soil over and then planting?
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 17, 2016 22:09:34 GMT -5
Just cutting and burning won't do much to stop the weeds and grass from overrunning your food plot once you DO get good germination....... Yea, one of the things I'm afraid of. I really don't want to have to go crazy with roundup afterwards to get it all back under control. Any suggestions? Should I just plant then cut to mulch it, if I do this would I get decent contact with the soil?
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 17, 2016 22:07:46 GMT -5
What are you planting I was looking for something like the whitetail institutes Power Plant which is a viney forage soy bean which uses the peas for support... I guess. I know you had some good ideas on my thread in the deer hunting section, I didn't know this section was here until today so I thought this a bit more appropriate.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 17, 2016 14:11:53 GMT -5
Looking to start my first food plot this year and looking for help. In the past I have played with small plots mostly as an experiment and such. This year I am planning on doing around an acre to start with. My new concern is insuring the seeds have good contact with the soil but are not over buried. In the past I have seen a lot of my seed get eaten by birds and such before it got a chance to germinate. I'm afraid if I bury it I will get it too deep and it will run out of energy before being able to reach the surface. I'm planning to do winter peas and soybeans.
Current plan is to mow existing wildgrasses down as low as possible then burn. Once it's burned I will use my tractor and cultivator to try to rough it up best as possible. After that I will broadcast seed and this is where I'm stuck. I have available the cultivator, a chain link fence to drag, bush hog and a snow plow. If I just drag it will this give proper cover? If I use the cultivator will this bury too deep? Could I just broadcast over the existing wildgrasses then mow as a mulch cover? I'm afraid the grasses are too thick and matted down to actually get seed to soil contact.
Any help is appreciated.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 12, 2016 13:32:05 GMT -5
This is what the screen is supposed to look like. This is what it does look like:
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 12, 2016 13:25:31 GMT -5
Thanks, never been there before.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 11, 2016 16:00:30 GMT -5
As far as I can see it's the micro crush x. I think they use a similar screen in most of them. I will see if I can get a picture of that screens options etc.
I forgot to say but I'd be willing to pay maybe $20 for one if it's the same.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 11, 2016 11:32:46 GMT -5
Looking for a little bit of help here. I got a Wildgame Innovations trail camera last year for a present, it was about 11 months ago. Being that it was a gift I did not get the receipt... come to find out now I should have asked. The camera works to take photos but the screen is broken, it is one of those blue backlit deals that show the selection on the screen but it looks like someone emptied a black pen inside of this screen. It still lights up and I see a couple things that are proper but it doesn't work. I am stuck with the settings the camera had before it broke. I am terrified to change batteries or press anything for fear of accidentally losing the date and time and have this thing be for nothing more than just pictures with no data. How it broke... I have no idea, I have moved, its been boxed up, ridden in my coat pocket (never fell out), ridden in the truck on the seat, been in the summer heat no clue. I just know that one time I used it and the screen was good and next time I went to use it the screen was cracked.
I contacted Wildgame Innovations customer service to see if I could get it replaced - this did not help. If i do not have the receipt they cannot do anything about it. I contacted the person I got it from and they do not have the receipt, they contacted the place they bought it from and they cannot look it up. CS said the best they could do is replace it if I can find the receipt or show that the manufacture date is less than a year ago from when I first contacted them, I looked at the camera last night and the manufacture date is made of some water soluble ink on a sticker that is outside of the water seal so it looks like a big red smudge. Wildgame also does not sell any replacement parts or have a service department. I may be getting my attitude towards WGI customer service slightly skewed as well because it's easy to find people all over that have had a bad experience with them.
I'm not sure how I should feel about this i'm upset at myself that I don't have the receipt but also feel like I am not getting a lot of great help from them either. If i had known I could use the manufacturers date I could have grabbed the camera earlier since it would have been right after it broke and possibly the manufacturers date would have still been intact and likely within the year. This thing retails for $180! although it is often onsale for around $99. I just want the thing to have the function it was supposed to have. For $99 I could have bought two cameras that simply take pictures.
Sorry short end for a long rant, anyone have any broken WGI cameras that have this screen inside that is good (maybe the camera is broke or something) that I can take apart and replace in this camera?
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 9, 2016 12:16:25 GMT -5
Does everyone put attractant out in front of the cameras or most just put on travel paths? If so what do you use for attractant?
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 4, 2016 16:58:38 GMT -5
I have two fields like what you describe. I first planted a cover crop of radishes, clover, cereal rye and rapeseed. The rye can drop a tap root 40 inches deep. A cover crop will improve your soil tillage substantially. My goal was to break up the compaction of the ground and it worked great. Compaction = won't drain. The places in these fields that did hold water don't anymore. First though I leveled the ground with a chisel plow, a disk and a pulverizer. If you don't have access to those implements you can still broadcast seed the cover crop. Just need to scratch up the soil first. I drilled my seeds and their growth was explosive. I used all Beck's Hybrid seeds since I live a mile south of their headquarters. Only seed that was expensive was the radishes. Deer love them though. Good luck! Thanks! at this point I just have a traditional grading plow on the tractor, a bush hog and a cultivator. I'm hoping I can mow it, burn it, then cultivate the heck out of it until it looks like it will take a seed. It would be nice with a disk though.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 4, 2016 16:54:51 GMT -5
In the bedding area get a # or so of Alamo switch grass and frost seed it now Switch grass seed is down in price now so this is a good time to experiment Good call. I would like to do that in a couple areas on my property that I don't really plan to trample through. Just give a few areas some additional cover. I do have some swampy area in the middle of my woods that I could through this along a bank or two.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 4, 2016 15:55:35 GMT -5
Have you looked at the Whitetail Institute page? They give good details on what each product provides. I'm wondering if the bigger problem will be cover for the deer. Do you have any thick unplantable areas? Are there any areas where the grass can grow tall? I am planning to leave a bit of it untreated for cover. They will have woods on 3 sides of them with a known bedding area on the 4th. They do give decent details I guess I just didn't find the info on how much sun how much rain moisture content etc.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 4, 2016 15:51:48 GMT -5
"Moist" isn't a problem, you could grow about anything you want there. But if it is one of these places where water stands occasionally, that will kill just about everything if the water sits there long enough. Burn the weeds off of it this March on a calm dry day, then plant with whatever you want. My go to plots are white clover, soybeans or turnips. Turnips plant in late summer. The problem is that I don't know enough about it through the summer. It will certainly be a bit of science fair this summer. I love the thought of soy beans that they eat the leaves through the summer and the beans in winter and that they stand above the snow.
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 3, 2016 15:18:17 GMT -5
Alsike clover Can do well in wet soils Frost seed now and use grass specific herbicides later clothodum worked for me well I have heard they do well in. I think they even do well in short periods of submersion right?
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Post by dusty20 on Feb 3, 2016 13:57:31 GMT -5
I am looking for some insight from those that have some background with food plots or experience farming.
The property I have is relatively new to me, I got it at the very end of last summer. I have a section of ground that has been farmed in the past by a member of the previous owners family. I am expecting him to continue to do so for the foreseeable future. Most of the ground around me is all ag so by the time October comes around it is starting to be removed. What I would like to do is add a little food to the mix. The area I would like to plant is one of the lowest areas on my property, it is currently covered by overgrowth in the summer and this time of the year it just appears to be dormant grasses and a travel way between woods.
The best I can tell this property stays relatively moist through the summer. not necessarily standing water but moist. Are there certain crops that will benefit the herd that will either thrive or withstand this type of ground? This is mostly going to be a trial basis by me but I would like to have a bit of a guided head start. Up until this point I was thinking of getting one of the whitetail institute sample kits (something like 10 packs of seeds that cover a 10x10 area each) and gridding up the area I want to plant to have a test to see not only what grows the best but what the deer prefer.
So what do you guys think, any insight?
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Post by dusty20 on Nov 20, 2015 9:48:52 GMT -5
Love listening to his podcasts and his YouTube videos ( wish he still did the seasons videos like he used to ). I'm a new hunter without family history of hunting so getting information like this is a huge benefit.
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Post by dusty20 on Nov 17, 2015 10:40:36 GMT -5
shaking my head. Why would anyone ever take this shot with a crossbow? Had a guy here at work last year took a 70 yard shot on a moving deer with a borrowed crossbow... He found it but I wouldn't say that was the most ethical shot in history.
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Post by dusty20 on Nov 12, 2015 20:41:03 GMT -5
I started wearing paint for a bit of a different reason, I know its probably like the orange, if I stayed still the deer probably won't notice a white face. I used paint because I found myself planning out my day after hunting as if I wasn't going to get anything and wouldn't need to track haul and clean it. Now I go into the woods then paint my face it almost gets my head right that I'm there for a reason.
I would much rather grow a beard but I'm 28 and grow something that looks worse than Joe dirts...
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Post by dusty20 on Nov 11, 2015 21:32:23 GMT -5
Good call on chain and turnbuckle. Never really thought about that.
One thing I've seen and been thinking about is just to buy another set of climbing sticks. You out them on the back side of the tree and use your lineman's belt to climb and out your lifeline on then do your ladder stand. That seems to be the only thing I can see to really be tied up the whole way. That solves the problem of a broken ladder stand, mistep, ladder falling before tied in etc. I'm generally frugal but seeing what my brother went through $50 or so for an extra set of sticks is less than lost wages and hospital bills.
Thanks for all the suggestions and if you have more by all means keep em coming.
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Post by dusty20 on Nov 11, 2015 20:21:16 GMT -5
Here's a neat concept, not sure if it has made it to the mainstream market. Looks expensive! Ha, that's a half a fortune in steel braded cable alone!
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