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Post by dannewton61 on Mar 4, 2016 5:57:56 GMT -5
It's an AI case with very little tapper and I have to blow out the neck to load it. I could use the barrel on it but I'd rather not wear out my chamber fireforming. I have a short barrel made for fireforming.
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Post by bullseye69 on Mar 4, 2016 20:45:52 GMT -5
It's an AI case with very little tapper and I have to blow out the neck to load it. I could use the barrel on it but I'd rather not wear out my chamber fireforming. I have a short barrel made for fireforming. Are you using the corn meal method? for fire forming. No bullets go down the barrel. You won't wear nothing out doing it with the corn meal. |
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Post by drs on Mar 5, 2016 5:32:29 GMT -5
It's an AI case with very little tapper and I have to blow out the neck to load it. I could use the barrel on it but I'd rather not wear out my chamber fireforming. I have a short barrel made for fireforming. When I fire-formed my wildcat cartridges, I use light load using SR-4759 powder and cast lead bullets. This has always worked fine for me with no indications of barrel wear.  |
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Post by deadeer on Mar 5, 2016 7:30:07 GMT -5
It's an AI case with very little tapper and I have to blow out the neck to load it. I could use the barrel on it but I'd rather not wear out my chamber fireforming. I have a short barrel made for fireforming. When I fire-formed my wildcat cartridges, I use light load using SR-4759 powder and cast lead bullets. This has always worked fine for me with no indications of barrel wear. Just so you know, sr4759 has been discontinued  . Snatch up what you can if you rely on it for anything or an alternative will have to be found. |
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Post by drs on Mar 5, 2016 9:14:02 GMT -5
When I fire-formed my wildcat cartridges, I use light load using SR-4759 powder and cast lead bullets. This has always worked fine for me with no indications of barrel wear. I know it was discontinued, this past year. I have several containers of SR-4759 and used it when I formed .308 brass made from .30-06 brass, and also some wildcat cartridges. Also, used it for "light-loads" in several cartridges, like my .22 Hornet and .25-20 Win. (Squirrel Loads). One very useful powder which I am sorry to see it go. It was once discontinued back in the early 1970's, but was reintroduced back in the 1980's. Maybe they'll find out how useful it is and put it back into production. |
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Post by dannewton61 on Mar 5, 2016 12:31:04 GMT -5
Yes, I use grits or cream of wheat , but I still think it puts some wear to the barrel. I may be wrong.  |
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Post by dannewton61 on Mar 5, 2016 12:36:01 GMT -5
I use about 8 grains of hs6 pistol powder , it works good. Any pistol powder. Do you load much of the sr4758? I'm new to wildcat.
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Post by drs on Mar 6, 2016 5:20:11 GMT -5
I use about 8 grains of hs6 pistol powder , it works good. Any pistol powder. Do you load much of the sr4758? I'm new to wildcat. Never tried HS-6 powder for any of my reloading or fire-forming brass. As for SR-4759 I've used it quite a bit for reloading my .22 Hornet & .25-20 Win (Light Loads) using 7.0 grain in both. For Squirrels they are much better than a .22 LR Hollow Point, being less destructive. I use a 50 gr. "High Velocity" 50 grain bullet in the Hornet, and use 86 gr. Bullet in my Winchester Model 43 .25-20 rifles. HOWEVER, here in Kentucky, we can't use centerfires for Squirrels, so now most of my shooting with these two calibers are at targets or plinking tin cans. Maybe Kentucky [someday] will change that law and I can once again use them for Squirrels. When forming wildcats; I use light loads of SR-4759 exclusively. |
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Post by dannewton61 on Mar 6, 2016 20:16:52 GMT -5
OK thanks, I went to the range today and tried 3031 powder with ppu brass for the first time. With a hornady 200 gr. Ftx bullet. I loaded from 45 gr. To 46.5 in 1/2 grain increments. I think I can go a little hotter. Velocity ranged from 2480 to 2570. The surprising part how well they grouped in the ladder test.  |
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Post by dannewton61 on Mar 6, 2016 20:18:33 GMT -5
Back to fireforming ,what does everyone else use?
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Post by esshup on Mar 6, 2016 20:30:08 GMT -5
I use my gunsmith.  I didn't want to screw with taking .338 Lapua brass down to 7mm Allen Magnum size. For $0.50/round, I thought it was a good deal. He took my 200 pieces of brass and necked down/fire formed them. I did the full pressure fireform in my chamber playing with load development and bullet seating depth. |
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Post by drs on Mar 7, 2016 5:05:58 GMT -5
Back to fireforming ,what does everyone else use? Years ago, I had a rifle re-chambered to the .257 Roberts IMP. There, all I had to do is fire regular .257 Roberts which formed the Improved version. Did the same with a .22 Hornet Model 70 Winchester re-chambered to the .22 K-Hornet. I also once owned a Cadet Martini in .17 Ackley Bee. I had to special order forming dies from R.C.B.S., used H-2400 or IMR-4227 to fire-form my .17 Ackley Bee cases. When you formed your .358 cases from 7.62 X 54 m/m did you have to anneal your brass, or inside ream the necks of your formed brass? |
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Post by dannewton61 on Mar 7, 2016 15:12:51 GMT -5
the first ones i formed i used old norma and lapua brass i played with 15 years ago with my mosin. they had been reloaded several times. i annealled them. also had to neck turn then because the brass had a tapered thickness. the new ppu brass is annealled and it is thinner, so didnt have to turn them. i made a set of neckdown sizing dies for making 358 just hunt brass, thats the 300 wsm 1.8 358 case.it takes about 5 steps to make that brass. the ppu only needed 2 steps to form ,pretty easy.i also found an easy way to cut down brass with a drill press and a cheap 2.5 in. saw blade for a dremel type tool.
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Post by drs on Mar 8, 2016 5:21:27 GMT -5
the first ones i formed i used old norma and lapua brass i played with 15 years ago with my mosin. they had been reloaded several times. i annealled them. also had to neck turn then because the brass had a tapered thickness. the new ppu brass is annealled and it is thinner, so didnt have to turn them. i made a set of neckdown sizing dies for making 358 just hunt brass, thats the 300 wsm 1.8 358 case.it takes about 5 steps to make that brass. the ppu only needed 2 steps to form ,pretty easy.i also found an easy way to cut down brass with a drill press and a cheap 2.5 in. saw blade for a dremel type tool. I read your earlier post (showing Target grouping) you mention receiving some 2,400 to 2,500 F.P.S. velocity. That [to me] would think that would be a safe limit load, and achieving more velocity might be risky. I don't know all that much about Moslin rifles, but I assume a Moslin rifle in good condition is fairly strong, especially with a new good quality barrel. |
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Post by dannewton61 on Mar 10, 2016 18:32:43 GMT -5
Thanks, I don't see any pressure signs yet , but I'm getting close. The 358 win goes to about 49 gr. so I figure I should be able to get to 48 gr. I'll go very slowly
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. Snatch up what you can if you rely on it for anything or an alternative will have to be found.
I didn't want to screw with taking .338 Lapua brass down to 7mm Allen Magnum size. For $0.50/round, I thought it was a good deal. He took my 200 pieces of brass and necked down/fire formed them. I did the full pressure fireform in my chamber playing with load development and bullet seating depth.