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Post by old3arrows on Nov 23, 2020 13:06:11 GMT -5
I just have to laugh at myself because 75% of the trees I try to hinge cut end up cut in two and laying on the ground! Whoops! I need to learn a little more restraint when intentionally trying not to fell a tree!
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Post by tynimiller on Dec 2, 2020 8:17:04 GMT -5
To be fair, hinge cutting is still falling the tree - but attached. It becomes second nature knowing when and how various trees will release or be just about to release for you to stop and then push or pull the thing down. Survival rates of hinges will go up exponentially if you try to always have to nudge the tree down or over instead of cutting it so far that the things falls - but many types can survive on far less connective cambium than we would think as well.
A canopy sucking tree is still often times better down than up for deer habitat so in the end...if hinging was a good call - it breaking off is still not a bad thing.
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Post by boonechaser on Dec 5, 2020 8:23:07 GMT -5
I just have to laugh at myself because 75% of the trees I try to hinge cut end up cut in two and laying on the ground! Whoops! I need to learn a little more restraint when intentionally trying not to fell a tree! Give me couple days notice and I'll come help you Rick.... (Have some cold beverages near by).... |
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Post by swilk on Dec 8, 2020 19:01:53 GMT -5
I'm going to dip my toes into the hinge cutting waters in a few weeks....my problem will likely be the trees I want to hinge don't want to be hinged.
Cottonwood.
Going to get a habitat pole and a small chainsaw and give it a go.
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Post by scrub-buster on Dec 8, 2020 21:06:11 GMT -5
I would guess young hackberry trees would be good for hinge cutting. They are very bendy.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2020 9:57:28 GMT -5
I would guess young hackberry trees would be good for hinge cutting. They are very bendy. That's funny and brought back an old memory. When my brothers and I were kids we would climb a hackberry and bend the top down to the ground and let another one hold on and release. Take us right to the top. |
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Post by parrothead on Dec 9, 2020 12:21:22 GMT -5
I just got my new pole saw in the other night. Can't wait till season is over to do some trimming with that sucker. No more hand cutting for me.
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Post by firstwd on Dec 12, 2020 9:43:19 GMT -5
Righr after the beans came out in mid October I walked along the road and laid over 50 to 60 yards of 6 to 12 inch diameter mulberry trees. They were hinged, but not to leave because they were encroaching on the field. I cut them at chest high and we decided to let them be for a while. I have zero idea if the deer were grateful but I know for certain numerous spotlighters weren't.
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Post by firstwd on Dec 12, 2020 20:50:04 GMT -5
I took a good look at what I had while I was down today and I believe I have developed a plan. If I take out the small trees I think I can latch on to the 5 or 6 bigger trees and turn them parallel to the road. Then all I need to do is trimm off the limbs on the field side to eliminate that problem. I'll be able to run a tiller next to and under the trees and plant mammoth sunflowers to grow up through them next spring. That should make a good privacy screen for the summer and fall and provide some enticement for the doves.
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Post by parrothead on Jan 9, 2021 12:01:45 GMT -5
Got to use my new pole saw this week. That thing is a beast. I started just using it to trim shooting lands as I was taking down stands and life lines. I then started using it to hinge cut trees. I dont cut anything bigger than 5 inches. It did great job and great battery life.
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Post by bartiks on Jan 23, 2021 1:48:06 GMT -5
From a safety aspect, if possible, why not cut the side of the tree where the majority of the wind comes from. Cut about 1/2 thru and wait for spring. Let the wind do the pushing for you. That is if you don't feel comfortable doing it on your own.
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Post by parrothead on Jan 23, 2021 15:10:54 GMT -5
You sound like me bartiks. I didnt do any tree bigger than 4-5ish inches. Just dont feel comfortable.
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Post by bartiks on Jan 23, 2021 21:21:37 GMT -5
You sound like me bartiks. I didnt do any tree bigger than 4-5ish inches. Just dont feel comfortable. I'm just speaking from experience, I did tree work for around 20 years and seen several accidents and many more close calls. I actually had a high school shop teacher of mine get killed when he tried to cut down a tree. Known several people to be paralyzed and many more with broken bones and the like. If the feeling in your gut is telling you don't do it, don't do it. Not worth the little reward compared to the risk. Hire a pro to do it for you. |
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Post by esshup on Jan 23, 2021 23:54:37 GMT -5
I agree with bartiks. I've cut down a LOT of trees and many have a pucker factor to them. One that I expected no problem from came down way sooner than expected. Seems the inside was hollow, only 2" on the outside was good, and this was a tree that was about 24" across. The side that I cut the wedge from was all good, but when I went to do the finish cut to drop it all you know what broke loose about 3" into the tree. Still fell the way I wanted it to go, but I about had to change my shorts.
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Post by parrothead on Jan 24, 2021 15:33:15 GMT -5
Had neighbor several years ago on Christmas Day of all days. Cut a tree it fell and wedged behind stump. He was pulling on it to get it from behind the stump. It came free hit him in face and chest area and killed him. Dangerous stuff.
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Post by beermaker on Jan 26, 2021 5:53:34 GMT -5
I recently watched a video on habitat improvement from Jeff Sturgis. He cautioned against "high" hinge cutting. He pointed out that it was not wise to operate a chainsaw at chest or head level. I agree.
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