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Post by kickinchicken on Nov 13, 2014 23:17:13 GMT -5
Looking for opinions about what type of broadheads you use for deer (whitetail).
I purchased my first bow in Dec 2010 (Bear Charge RTH). I was doing good for the first couple of months shooting weekly and sighted in good, but got away from it and didn't touch again until a week ago. It was kept in a soft case but noticed the string fraying and took it in to get new string. I went ahead and got some small game tips for rabbit and squirrel around my house, but have know idea which type of broadhead to use. I finally have time to go hunting again and may try to finish out the year with bow after gun and muzzleloader season.
Thoughts? Opinions?
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Post by htownhunter on Nov 13, 2014 23:58:04 GMT -5
You just opened a whole can of worms.
I have mechanical broadheads(shwacker 100 grain) and I bought these because they were recommended to me. I have yet to harvest a deer with my bow. So I would not be of very good use in this decision. I will say that when it says on the package that the fly just like field tips. They actually do.
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Post by kickinchicken on Nov 14, 2014 6:18:14 GMT -5
Thanks htownhunter for the reply.
Guess I could have rephrased the question to: What do you shoot, mechanical or fixed? Why? Maybe this will help minimize the worm spillage.
I was looking at mechanical, but have heard some stories about them breaking apart after impact. I really don't want to worry about searching for broken pieces while dressing or butchering. Is this a common occurrence or jus a one in a million type chance occurring?
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Post by dbd870 on Nov 14, 2014 7:44:26 GMT -5
A rather large undertaking was done by Dr. Ed Ashby in Africa on arrow penetration and it was found heavy fixed 2 blade broadheads did much better than anything else. Interestingly 4 bladed ones did a little better than 3 bladed ones. Now for white tail and with the speeds of compound bows these days is that a huge issue - probably not; however if you worry about a blown shot and having to penetrate bone it may give you an edge. I'm a recurve shooter now so it is a bit more of an issue for me, especially since I'm pulling 46-47#. I'm going with a 160gr 2 blade Zwicky with a total arrow weight of 510gr. According to Ashby if I really want penetration I should be using a heavier head even than that. The other issue that gets hotly debated is FOC; I'm running 16% and there is a camp that says you should be in the 20's for maximum penetration.
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Post by scrub-buster on Nov 14, 2014 21:07:56 GMT -5
When I used a compound I always used Muzzy 3 blades. They are reliable, reasonably priced, would go through bone, flew like field points, and had replaceable blades. When I hit them where it counts they don't go far. I used the muzzy 3 blade on my crossbow this year and combined the two deer I shot didn't run 50 yards after the shot. That being said, I am also into primitive archery and have killed deer using a stone point and a home made two blade single bevel point like dbd870 mentioned. The important thing is hitting them in the kill zone. Find a broad head that shoots accurately out of your bow and you can't go wrong.
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Post by kickinchicken on Nov 17, 2014 18:39:19 GMT -5
I went ahead and got the swhacker 2in mechanical. Should pick them up from the shop in Greensburg on Thursday will let y'all know how they do after gun is over plan on finishing out the season with bow.
Thanks again for all the input.
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Post by art338wm on May 8, 2015 14:14:11 GMT -5
I've killed 27 deer with a bow 15 does and 12 antlered bucks. All with fixed blade BH's. My last 6 with four bladed Wasp Boss BH's with a 1-1/6" cutting diameter. All save two were pass throughs all save two left big entry and exit holes, superb but un nesassary blood trails. I have only had two bow shot dear go past 100 yards, one was a liver shot (my fault not the BH's) big buck that went about 200-220 yards bed down and died, the other was a decent buck that was a dbl lung hit and he was rutting really hard at the time I shot him and he went about 120-125 yards.
The two were the arrow remained in the deer were a sharply angled to the left facing away from me shot where the arrow still went through both lungs but logged in his opposite shoulder the other #2 was a no lie arrow shot through the front center of his skull, as you can guess no tracking there.
To each his own, but its been said countless times prier, shot placement is God in quickly and cleanly killing any animal and a poor hit with any BH wont be any better than a poor hit with a 300wm, and it stands to reason a BH through both lungs regardless of size will kill quickly, with a near 100% odds of recovery.
I have made double lung hits on deer with 125 grain 1.5" cutting diameter Rocky MTN's, 1.25" NAP/TH BH's, 1.1254" NAP/TH and 1.125 Wasp's boss, WHEN PUT THROUGH THE HEART/LUNG area, all killed as quick as could EVER be expected, and all left excellent easy to fallow, but rarely needed blood trails.
Pick your BH, practice with it till you have supreme confidence in it and put it where it belongs, and you will enjoy as I have a 100% recovery rate of double lung hit deer. I have lost two bow shot bucks in my life, one I think I hit below the spine and above the lungs, the other my arrow hit something in flight and stuck in his front shoulder barely BH deep the buck instantly snapped his head around ripped out the arrow and took off like he had fully lit his after burners.
I have but two concerns about mechanical BH's, #1-the fact they require a spacific minimum FPS/energy level to work concerns me, and two history of anything man made has proven beyond doubt moving parts will ALWAYS have a higher, often much higher incident of failure than a object devoid of moving parts.
Just my .2c based on 30+ years and 25+ bow killed deer.
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