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Post by esshup on Apr 11, 2012 7:15:22 GMT -5
I'm in the process of clearing out an area that is overrun with River Birch, but has some Oaks and other wildlife friendly trees in it. I cut down all the larger unwanted trees and will be getting a bobcat with a Fecon head today to grind up the Autumn Olive, small River Birch, etc.
Once the unwanted trees/brush is removed, I plan on not planting anything in that area (which is around the desirable trees) for a year.
What can I spray that will keep the cut/chopped trees from re-growing, but won't kill the trees that I'm leaving? The area is large, a couple of acres total, and I can't use Tordon on the cut trees because there is literally 1,000's of them. The trees that I'm leaving are a minimum of 4' tall, to about 20' tall.
The plan is to plant clover in that area next year. Something that doesn't really need to be mowed, but has value for wildlife and still looks presentable. Part of the area is next to a gravel driveway.
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Post by hornharvester on Apr 11, 2012 9:29:35 GMT -5
If the bushes are just cut you can use 41% Round up or generic Round Up and spray the cut off area. Wildlife property manager told me last year they are mowing off Chinese dogwood and following up with a crew spraying round up to kill it off. If you want call Salamonie office and ask for the property manager. Ask him the questions as he is the one who told me. h.h.
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Post by dadfsr on Apr 11, 2012 10:36:05 GMT -5
If the bushes are just cut you can use 41% Round up or generic Round Up and spray the cut off area. Wildlife property manager told me last year they are mowing off Chinese dogwood and following up with a crew spraying round up to kill it off. If you want call Salamonie office and ask for the property manager. Ask him the questions as he is the one who told me. h.h. The 41% Roundup application on a stump that was actively growing is same thing that our local Soil and Water Conservation rep told me last week (she did her Masters research on it). The key is that it needs to be applied on an active stump-doing an application on one cut in the fall does not have nearly as good of results. |
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Post by goosepondmonster on Apr 11, 2012 12:35:54 GMT -5
The 41% Roundup application on a stump that was actively growing is same thing that our local Soil and Water Conservation rep told me last week (she did her Masters research on it). The key is that it needs to be applied on an active stump-doing an application on one cut in the fall does not have nearly as good of results. Would that work on willows that were recently cut at the edge of a pond? |
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Post by throbak on Apr 11, 2012 13:08:08 GMT -5
spray soon after you cut, It works well ,Done it, with good results
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Post by goosepondmonster on Apr 11, 2012 15:30:46 GMT -5
spray soon after you cut, It works well ,Done it, with good results Thanks I will let the guy know. |
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Post by sleepergsx on Apr 11, 2012 18:48:58 GMT -5
I use muratic acid...its an old farmers trick...pour it on the stumps or brush you want to get rid of....in 6 weeks you can knock them out with a shovel.
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Post by goosepondmonster on Apr 12, 2012 7:40:18 GMT -5
I use muratic acid...its an old farmers trick...pour it on the stumps or brush you want to get rid of....in 6 weeks you can knock them out with a shovel. Is that safe to use at the edge of a pond? |
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Post by ms660 on Apr 12, 2012 10:41:19 GMT -5
I use muratic acid...its an old farmers trick...pour it on the stumps or brush you want to get rid of....in 6 weeks you can knock them out with a shovel. Is that safe to use at the edge of a pond? People put in their swimming pools each spring to lower the PH levels a little around a pond I wouldn't think would hurt anything, unless you get it on yourself while using it |
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Post by sleepergsx on Apr 12, 2012 15:19:21 GMT -5
Is that safe to use at the edge of a pond? People put in their swimming pools each spring to lower the PH levels a little around a pond I wouldn't think would hurt anything, unless you get it on yourself while using it exactly....it should be safe, but definitely dont get it on you... |
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Post by esshup on Apr 13, 2012 6:40:28 GMT -5
Thanks guys. It's an area that is roughly 4 acres (I'll measure it today), so I'll just keep the area sprayed with glyphosate all year (re-spraying the new shoots that come up).
Applying to the stumps isn't an option, they get ground down slightly below ground level with the machine and promptly covered up with dirt in the grinding process.
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Post by dadfsr on Apr 13, 2012 7:02:06 GMT -5
Thanks guys. It's an area that is roughly 4 acres (I'll measure it today), so I'll just keep the area sprayed with glyphosate all year (re-spraying the new shoots that come up). Applying to the stumps isn't an option, they get ground down slightly below ground level with the machine and promptly covered up with dirt in the grinding process. Don't suppose you would want to go in ahead of time, cut them off and treat the stumps?? I've never used a FECON but have checked into them plenty of times so I know what they will do and agree with what you are saying about the way they will leave the ground. Your only other choice would be to wait until things resprout and hit them then  |
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Post by duff on Apr 13, 2012 19:55:17 GMT -5
People put in their swimming pools each spring to lower the PH levels a little around a pond I wouldn't think would hurt anything, unless you get it on yourself while using it exactly....it should be safe, but definitely dont get it on you... And tell us all how many fish or aquatic plants do you have growing/living in your swimming pool?  For the most part it would probably be OK as the low pH acid would be buffered by the pond water but it all depends on the situation. If you have questions on what to apply or not apply in specific locations I would call the county extension office  Remember you are responsible for what you apply to the ground, in the CO magazine last month there was an article on a few guys that were arrested for misuse of pesticides that resulted in killing wild life. |
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Post by esshup on Apr 15, 2012 13:21:30 GMT -5
Thanks guys. It's an area that is roughly 4 acres (I'll measure it today), so I'll just keep the area sprayed with glyphosate all year (re-spraying the new shoots that come up). Applying to the stumps isn't an option, they get ground down slightly below ground level with the machine and promptly covered up with dirt in the grinding process. Don't suppose you would want to go in ahead of time, cut them off and treat the stumps?? I've never used a FECON but have checked into them plenty of times so I know what they will do and agree with what you are saying about the way they will leave the ground. Your only other choice would be to wait until things resprout and hit them then Resprout and hit it is. I spent two solid weeks chainsawing the larger trees, I think 1,000's of them is an understatement. I cut ones that were 6"-10" DBH, just dropping them and putting them on burn piles with a 65hp JD w/grapple bucket. Once I get the smaller trees out of the way I'll start working on the even larger Birches. There are some that are 18" or so DBH that the landowner wants gone. The machine works relatively well, but I wish it had more power. Where the smaller birches are thick (areas that you couldn't walk thru) it will bog down on the stringy "sawdust" as I'm trying to grind the stumps. 6" and larger stumps will bog down the head. If I try to grind slowly, the stumps start smoking. I have to drop the head quickly and almost stop it to get it to "chip". The carbides are rounded from use, so that's one of the problems. Between 4-5 gallons of diesel per hour. Takeuchi TL250 machine, 60" wide cutting Fecon Head. |
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