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Post by antiwheeze on Feb 2, 2011 16:03:51 GMT -5
I have a trigger weight discovery that is confounding me (Woody I hope ur looking). I finally worked up the guts to work on the 8-9lb trigger pull on my carbine. I think the gun may have been unfired when I bought it. And I have only put a few hundred rounds thru it. After much mental cussing, filing and wondering why I ever opened Pandora's box, I have it breaking around 6.5 lbs. Here comes the BIG BUT........If i pull the trigger against the safety in the no fire position then move the safety to the firing position the trigger pull is about 2.5 lbs! I don't understand why this is happening and wonder if anyone else with a Ruger 44 carbine has made a similar discovery. Click to see video:  |
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Post by huxbux on Feb 2, 2011 16:40:46 GMT -5
I have an identical rifle. I just pulled it out of the safe and duplicated the action you described. There is no change in my trigger pull weight. I don't have a gauge, but I'd guess the pull at around 6 lbs, which is still a lot for a rifle built back when these were manufactured but hey, it IS a Ruger after all.
I've trained myself to shoot a heavy trigger, it just takes practice. Too late now, but messing with ANY trigger is NOT a good idea. Polishing slightly maybe, but filing? No way, no how. I'm not a gunsmith, but I know a lot of them that claim they are who have messed up lots of triggers by "tweaking" them. If I wanted a better trigger, I'd go with an aftermarket.
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Post by mrfixit on Feb 2, 2011 21:23:04 GMT -5
Ruger triggers are pretty finicky. Your only a couple filings away from having a potential safety failure.
Best bet is spend the extra money for a new lighter trigger. At least your sure your safety hasn't been compromised.
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Post by Woody Williams on Feb 3, 2011 8:06:22 GMT -5
I have an identical rifle. I just pulled it out of the safe and duplicated the action you described. There is no change in my trigger pull weight. I don't have a gauge, but I'd guess the pull at around 6 lbs, which is still a lot for a rifle built back when these were manufactured but hey, it IS a Ruger after all. I've trained myself to shoot a heavy trigger, it just takes practice. Too late now, but messing with ANY trigger is NOT a good idea. Polishing slightly maybe, but filing? No way, no how. I'm not a gunsmith, but I know a lot of them that claim they are who have messed up lots of triggers by "tweaking" them. If I wanted a better trigger, I'd go with an aftermarket. Ditto.. Tried mine and saw no felt difference. |
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Post by RoadKill on Feb 3, 2011 10:28:29 GMT -5
Some trigger designs have a "reset". That is, if a trigger pull is aborted before the sear trips, the engagement angles cause the sear/hammer/trigger to reset to max engagement. This can be seen as the hammer actually moving a little bit as the trigger is pulled; and when the trigger is released the hammer moves back to its original position. One of the ways of reducing pull weight is to reduce the reset angle, the hammer doesn't move as much. The downside is that an aborted pull or one pulled against a safety that allows some movement, might not "reset" to max engagement. The safety can be built up to prevent any movement. I've seen what you describe done on purpose as a "shade tree" set trigger. The bolt should be cycled to reset things after an aborted pull or pull against the safety.
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Post by steiny on Feb 3, 2011 18:32:43 GMT -5
Best leave Ruger trigger work to a professional gunsmith. They are a "non adjustable" trigger. Replace it with a Timney trigger and follow the installation and adjustment instructions.
The notion that you can train yourself to shoot a heavy trigger accurately is off base. Anybody that can shoot decent with a heavy trigger will shoot better with a light trigger.
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Post by antiwheeze on Feb 3, 2011 21:04:21 GMT -5
Best leave Ruger trigger work to a professional gunsmith. They are a "non adjustable" trigger. Replace it with a Timney trigger and follow the installation and adjustment instructions. There is no aftermarket trigger for the Ruger 44 mag carbine...that would be too easy! |
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Post by huxbux on Feb 3, 2011 21:22:08 GMT -5
This is true of course. One can always shoot better with a lighter trigger.
I must respectfully disagree with this however. I will never shoot a heavy trigger as accurately as a light one, but I do shoot a heavy trigger much better than I used to. It's a matter of finger strength, technique, and practice.
But this is off topic.
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Post by huxbux on Feb 3, 2011 21:32:36 GMT -5
You might try this guy, some people swear by his work. On the other hand, some who have sent him triggers have reported problems. No personal experience, so I can't relate anything first hand. Looks like he offers a tweak job on a new OEM trigger. www.triggerwork.net/1022.html |
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Post by Sasquatch on Feb 7, 2011 5:42:23 GMT -5
If it's acting different than other, identical triggers, I'd get the whole works replaced if possible. Not worth the risk!
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Post by antiwheeze on Feb 7, 2011 21:05:46 GMT -5
I gave up on my 44 mag and put back in a new factory hammer  . Now it is back to a safe 6-7 lbs  . My 10-22 turned out well @ 2lbs ;D. |
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Post by huxbux on Feb 8, 2011 15:00:02 GMT -5
Good deal. That rifle isn't designed to be a tack driver anyway. It's a short, quick handling carbine for thick woods. Still, you should be able to shoot 3 MOA with practice. Lots of practice using a snap cap helps get used to that heavy trigger.
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Post by tony on Feb 8, 2011 18:26:47 GMT -5
Took both of mine to the local gunsmith and they are at 2# each now.
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. My 10-22 turned out well @ 2lbs ;D.