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Post by esshup on Dec 29, 2010 1:59:15 GMT -5
I was thinking of trying to snare for 'yotes here on the property. I put out a gut pile and it's getting hit regularly.
I figure it would be easier to use them with the way the weather will be (rainy/freezing/snow) than legholds (which I haven't dyed and waxed yet).
Any suggestions/tips/tricks or a good DVD or book to get?
From what I've read, 15" max. dia, and there will be deer stops on them. I'm leaning more towards a kill snare rather than a catch 'em and hold 'em type.
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Post by Decatur on Dec 29, 2010 5:57:57 GMT -5
Set all of the trails leading to to the pile rather than the pile itself. Good luck!
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Post by tjmurf on Dec 29, 2010 6:52:48 GMT -5
Not diameter, [glow=red,2,300]circumference[/glow]
Snares
It is only legal to use a snare to trap a wild animal on land you own or with the written permission of the landowner. [glow=red,2,300]The maximum legal circumference for snare loops is 15 inches, unless at least half of the snare loop is covered by water or if the snare employs a relaxing snare lock.[/glow] A relaxing snare lock allows the snare loop to loosen slightly to reduce the possibility of strangulation. Regulations on snare size and lock are designed to prevent accidental loss of domestic animals.
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Post by trapperdave on Dec 29, 2010 10:16:28 GMT -5
as stated, relaxing locks only. Make a 12 inch loop hang it 12 inches above the ground on trails coming in to bait.
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Post by esshup on Dec 29, 2010 11:46:17 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I was going to order the snares from The Snare Shop later on this week.
The trails are going thru the woods, and they woods has very little understory. If set in the trail, will they still try to walk thru it, or do I need to find a place where they are forced thru a narrow area?
With the relaxing lock, what is commonly used to dispatch the 'yotes?
Suggestions on anchoring them? I think I need some sort of pigtail to hold the snare loop in position, right?
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Post by trapperdave on Dec 29, 2010 17:24:29 GMT -5
they'll tend to use the same trails. just set where the have to walk thru them. most arent at all snare shy, its just another weed to them. a .22 works good, or a hard downward strike on the end of the snout to knock em out then you can stand on chest to asphyxiate (great on fox, i prefer the 22 to the brain for yotes ) anchor them good like a trap. double staking recommended or wire to fencepost if setting fences (my favorite in areas with NO dog traffic) use a heavy guage wire to make your pigtails
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Post by esshup on Dec 29, 2010 23:08:53 GMT -5
I've got rebar, washers and a welder. How long should the stakes be? Sandy soil.....
Stake them in a "X", correct?
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Post by Decatur on Dec 29, 2010 23:35:47 GMT -5
I've never trapped in real sandy soil, but I think two 15-18" stakes, staked in an "x" should hold. I'm sure someone on here as more experience with sandy soil than I do. I usually just pull on them with everything I got and if they don't move, I feel safe. I don't believe I've ever had a stake pulled before.
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Post by trapperdave on Dec 30, 2010 9:58:33 GMT -5
i wouldnt go any shorter than 18 in sandy areas. Like Decatur said, give em the ol heave ho to make sure they are holding.
check into the pogo staking system.... there a video somewhere of it holding a horse. It uses a 2" washer and cable, no stake
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Post by Decatur on Dec 30, 2010 11:52:07 GMT -5
Pogo anchors are the way to go!!! Installed properly, they could hold a T-Rex!
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Post by jrbhunter on Dec 30, 2010 12:44:59 GMT -5
While there's nothing here in this thread I disagree with, my input would be slightly different.
I set a 10" loop, 10" off the ground. I of course use relaxing locks but prefer to order my stuff from Charlie at Hoosier Trapper Supply. I prefer the 18" Burkshire's over the pogo's for my cable stakes, but the Stingray is a great option as well. I'm heading out on a hunting trip this weekend with the inventor of the Stingray so I'll probably bring a few home to play with.
The most rewarding snare catches I've ever made were open land sets in large fields. There is just something about strategically placing those snares that makes it even more satisfying than setting them on a crawlunder or thick trail. To increase the odds of retrieving dead coyotes in your snares, set in an area that allows for entanglement on nearby brush. This may also increase your odds of retrieving a fox if you snag one: open land snared fox in my area are usually eaten by coyotes before I get to them.
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Post by huntingman on Dec 30, 2010 22:04:32 GMT -5
To dispatch them a shot right behind the ear with a .22
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Post by esshup on Dec 31, 2010 22:53:34 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Are the pogo's reuseable? I mean can you get them out of the ground without having to hire a woodchuck?
I'll be setting the snares in the woods behind the house - only one 1/2 ac and one 1/4 ac that is "open" - they're food plots.
I had a tree top come down not too long ago, I'll try dropping a gut pile in the center of it and set some snares outside of the top once trails get established. I still have 2 left to be placed out.
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Post by Decatur on Dec 31, 2010 23:27:19 GMT -5
Ya, you can buy, or make a puller. I made one out of a wheelbarrow handle. Anything that will give you leverage. Sometimes they will break when pulling them, but they are cheap to make.
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Post by esshup on Dec 31, 2010 23:30:00 GMT -5
Just something to grab onto the cable and give you more oomph to pull it out of the soil?
I can make something like that!
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Post by Decatur on Dec 31, 2010 23:33:36 GMT -5
Yep!
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Post by esshup on Jan 1, 2011 0:18:59 GMT -5
Thanks!
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Post by trapperdave on Jan 1, 2011 9:30:20 GMT -5
shovel. IF its a set youll reuse next year, leave the pogo n cable. just open the J hook
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Post by jkorn33 on Jan 2, 2011 15:02:32 GMT -5
we make our snares, caught 25 yotes this year so far! and just about that many fox
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Post by Decatur on Jan 2, 2011 15:14:56 GMT -5
Sounds like you're having a good year! To hear some tell it, there arent 20 fox in the whole state.
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