Post by dadfsr on Jan 12, 2007 15:25:49 GMT -5
Tools
Drill Press: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat bar stock out of your hands, striking you in the chest and flinging your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part on the workbench.
Wire Wheel: Cleans paint off bolts and throws them under the workbench at the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and guitar calluses in the time it takes to say "ouch!"
Electric Hand Drill: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.
Pliers: Used to round off bolt heads. May also be used to create blood blisters.
Hacksaw: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija Board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion and the more you attempt to influence its direction the more dismal your failure becomes.
Vice Grips: Generaly used after pliers to further round off a bolt. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
Oxy-acetylene Torch: Used almost exclusively for lighting various flamable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for setting fire to the grease around that wheel bearing you were trying to remove by heating the hub.
Whitworth Sockets: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles. Now mostly are hammered over bolts previously rounded by vice grips.
Hydraulic Floor Jack: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after installing new brake shoes, trapping the handle firmly under the bumper. May also be used to lower vehicle onto the plastic pail you drained the engine oil into, immediatly prior to moving the vehicle and spilling oil all over your concrete driveway.
Two by Four: An eight-foot long 2X4 used for levering the vehicle upward off the hydraulic floor jack handle.
Tweezers: A tool for removing 2X4 splinters or wire wheel wires from your fingers.
E-Z Out Bolt and Stud Extractor: A tool 10 times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes. Works well in inexpensive or easy to replace parts but using this tool in expensive parts will cause almost certain failure.
Two-Ton Engine Hoist: Used for testing the tensile strength of electrical wires, hoses etc that you forgot to disconnect.
Craftsman 1/2 X 16 inch Screwdriver. A large prybar that inexplicably has an accurately machined flat tip at the opposite end to the handle.
Aviation Metal Snips: See "Hacksaw."
Trouble Light: A very appropriately named tool. Its two main purposes are to shine an intense light directly into your eyes instead of onto the part you are trying to illuminate and also to consume 40 watt light bulbs at the same rate as a
105 MM Howitzer consumes shells. Sometimes called a drop light for reasons obvious to anybody who has used one.
Philips Screwdriver: Normally used to stab the silver vacuum seals under the srew off lids of oil cans but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out the heads of phillips screws.
Pry Bar: A tool often used to crumple the metal surrounding a clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace that 50 cent part.
Hose Cutter: Used to make hoses too short.
Hammer: Originally used as a weapon of war, but nowadays used as a divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the part you are trying to hit.
Utility Knife: Used to open boxes and slice through the contents of packages delivered to your front door. Works particularly well on items such as seats, CD's, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines etc. Especially useful for slicing through work clothes, but only when you are in them.
Dammit Tool: Any tool that gets thrown across the garage as you yell "Dammit!" It is also the next tool that you will need.
Expletive: A soothing balm, or mechanics lube, usualy applied verbally and in hindsight, which somehow eases the pain and embarrasment of our lack of foresight.
Clothes hanger: a devise when cut and bent used to fish the Damnit tool from the floor drain..which if cut and bent correctly will be too short and bent the wrong way and may in all likelyhood become a damnit tool within minutes of use
Belt/disc sander: A set of tools that not only removes fingerprints but also the creases on your knuckles. Has also been used to throw small parts long distances
Box end wrench set: A wrench set of many different sizes that never has the RIGHT size!....oh, yes it does, I finally found it after 7 trips back to the toolbox
Crescent Wrench: Bolt head stripper or Damnit tool..."Damnit, there goes the skin on those knuckles again!
tool box-someplace to lock the dammit tools up so you dont get hurt.Then you forget were you put the dam key.
welder-to make a dam tool that the dammit tool wouldnt fit,also throws little sparks that land on the unprotected parts of your body.(i dont care how much leather you wear the sparks still find that one spot).
cutting tourch-to cut what you didnt want to cut(dammit).
I'm sure that there will be some more added as you think of them
Drill Press: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat bar stock out of your hands, striking you in the chest and flinging your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part on the workbench.
Wire Wheel: Cleans paint off bolts and throws them under the workbench at the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and guitar calluses in the time it takes to say "ouch!"
Electric Hand Drill: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.
Pliers: Used to round off bolt heads. May also be used to create blood blisters.
Hacksaw: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija Board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion and the more you attempt to influence its direction the more dismal your failure becomes.
Vice Grips: Generaly used after pliers to further round off a bolt. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
Oxy-acetylene Torch: Used almost exclusively for lighting various flamable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for setting fire to the grease around that wheel bearing you were trying to remove by heating the hub.
Whitworth Sockets: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles. Now mostly are hammered over bolts previously rounded by vice grips.
Hydraulic Floor Jack: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after installing new brake shoes, trapping the handle firmly under the bumper. May also be used to lower vehicle onto the plastic pail you drained the engine oil into, immediatly prior to moving the vehicle and spilling oil all over your concrete driveway.
Two by Four: An eight-foot long 2X4 used for levering the vehicle upward off the hydraulic floor jack handle.
Tweezers: A tool for removing 2X4 splinters or wire wheel wires from your fingers.
E-Z Out Bolt and Stud Extractor: A tool 10 times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes. Works well in inexpensive or easy to replace parts but using this tool in expensive parts will cause almost certain failure.
Two-Ton Engine Hoist: Used for testing the tensile strength of electrical wires, hoses etc that you forgot to disconnect.
Craftsman 1/2 X 16 inch Screwdriver. A large prybar that inexplicably has an accurately machined flat tip at the opposite end to the handle.
Aviation Metal Snips: See "Hacksaw."
Trouble Light: A very appropriately named tool. Its two main purposes are to shine an intense light directly into your eyes instead of onto the part you are trying to illuminate and also to consume 40 watt light bulbs at the same rate as a
105 MM Howitzer consumes shells. Sometimes called a drop light for reasons obvious to anybody who has used one.
Philips Screwdriver: Normally used to stab the silver vacuum seals under the srew off lids of oil cans but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out the heads of phillips screws.
Pry Bar: A tool often used to crumple the metal surrounding a clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace that 50 cent part.
Hose Cutter: Used to make hoses too short.
Hammer: Originally used as a weapon of war, but nowadays used as a divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the part you are trying to hit.
Utility Knife: Used to open boxes and slice through the contents of packages delivered to your front door. Works particularly well on items such as seats, CD's, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines etc. Especially useful for slicing through work clothes, but only when you are in them.
Dammit Tool: Any tool that gets thrown across the garage as you yell "Dammit!" It is also the next tool that you will need.
Expletive: A soothing balm, or mechanics lube, usualy applied verbally and in hindsight, which somehow eases the pain and embarrasment of our lack of foresight.
Clothes hanger: a devise when cut and bent used to fish the Damnit tool from the floor drain..which if cut and bent correctly will be too short and bent the wrong way and may in all likelyhood become a damnit tool within minutes of use
Belt/disc sander: A set of tools that not only removes fingerprints but also the creases on your knuckles. Has also been used to throw small parts long distances
Box end wrench set: A wrench set of many different sizes that never has the RIGHT size!....oh, yes it does, I finally found it after 7 trips back to the toolbox
Crescent Wrench: Bolt head stripper or Damnit tool..."Damnit, there goes the skin on those knuckles again!
tool box-someplace to lock the dammit tools up so you dont get hurt.Then you forget were you put the dam key.
welder-to make a dam tool that the dammit tool wouldnt fit,also throws little sparks that land on the unprotected parts of your body.(i dont care how much leather you wear the sparks still find that one spot).
cutting tourch-to cut what you didnt want to cut(dammit).
I'm sure that there will be some more added as you think of them