Post by gunner on Jul 24, 2006 11:21:20 GMT -5
All the UTV and ATV roading rigs I've seen for sale are outriggers that connect to the atv/utv and run off to either side.
I wanted my dogs to be UPFRONT as they would be when I road them from horseback or where they should be when hunting or trialing out of harness.
I wanted to get them used to hearing the commands; stepup, whoaup, alright, up-a-head, easy, gee, haw, etc from behind them.
My miles of mowed trails are narrow, not much wider then the atv itself and go adjacient to cover edges, thru woods and brush. The manuufactured outriggers that extend to the side would not work on those trails. They be ok in wide open expanses I guess.
My outriggers will pull out to the length of the square tubing they're seated in by pulling a coupling pin, but I rarely do. It's easy to road six dogs of coupler, but unless you are a pro most folks don't need to.
I'll often plant birds in launchers off the trail in the cover nearby and set up training situations as we road. Sometimes using electronic launchers and popup dog for pointing, backing, and stop to flush practice. The atv once the break is set makes a great land anchor for those setups.
I vary the speed that the dogs road, usually building up to approx 6-8 miles at a dog trot of 7-9 miles per hour, then sprints up to approx 20 mph. Always carrying plenty of water in containers or canteens and a small 3 gallon hand sprayers to easily hose the dog's bellys while on the trail.
One of my atv's has a removable receiver mount for a winch.
This summer I'm going to make a aluminum pole like a horse buggy single tree to extend from the receiver mount forward and upward which will mount easily to the receiver mount with a single hitch pin.
Other suggestions for roading setups would be to use the shock absorber units for up to 6 dogs made by mushers to attach there sleds to the dogs gangline. Find those manufacturers at sleddogcentral.com
Use Italian bronze snaps instead of the cheap Malayan brass ones. And be sure to have a short length of safety cable snapped to act as a backup if the snaps wear and break under pulling pressure.
This safety has kept my dogs attached to the rig several times when snaps or rings have broken or come apart for some reason.
Roading rigs are great ways to train or condition hunting and trial dogs.
ps I've installed stealth mufflers to both my atvs and they cut the exhaust noise consideribly which improves the training experience.
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All the UTV and ATV roading rigs I've seen for sale are outriggers that connect to the atv/utv and run off to either side.
I wanted my dogs to be UPFRONT as they would be when I road them from horseback or where they should be when hunting or trialing out of harness.
I wanted to get them used to hearing the commands; stepup, whoaup, alright, up-a-head, easy, gee, haw, etc from behind them.
My miles of mowed trails are narrow, not much wider then the atv itself and go adjacient to cover edges, thru woods and brush. The manuufactured outriggers that extend to the side would not work on those trails. They be ok in wide open expanses I guess.
My outriggers will pull out to the length of the square tubing they're seated in by pulling a coupling pin, but I rarely do. It's easy to road six dogs of coupler, but unless you are a pro most folks don't need to.
I'll often plant birds in launchers off the trail in the cover nearby and set up training situations as we road. Sometimes using electronic launchers and popup dog for pointing, backing, and stop to flush practice. The atv once the break is set makes a great land anchor for those setups.
I vary the speed that the dogs road, usually building up to approx 6-8 miles at a dog trot of 7-9 miles per hour, then sprints up to approx 20 mph. Always carrying plenty of water in containers or canteens and a small 3 gallon hand sprayers to easily hose the dog's bellys while on the trail.
One of my atv's has a removable receiver mount for a winch.
This summer I'm going to make a aluminum pole like a horse buggy single tree to extend from the receiver mount forward and upward which will mount easily to the receiver mount with a single hitch pin.
Other suggestions for roading setups would be to use the shock absorber units for up to 6 dogs made by mushers to attach there sleds to the dogs gangline. Find those manufacturers at sleddogcentral.com
Use Italian bronze snaps instead of the cheap Malayan brass ones. And be sure to have a short length of safety cable snapped to act as a backup if the snaps wear and break under pulling pressure.
This safety has kept my dogs attached to the rig several times when snaps or rings have broken or come apart for some reason.
Roading rigs are great ways to train or condition hunting and trial dogs.
ps I've installed stealth mufflers to both my atvs and they cut the exhaust noise consideribly which improves the training experience.
I wanted my dogs to be UPFRONT as they would be when I road them from horseback or where they should be when hunting or trialing out of harness.
I wanted to get them used to hearing the commands; stepup, whoaup, alright, up-a-head, easy, gee, haw, etc from behind them.
My miles of mowed trails are narrow, not much wider then the atv itself and go adjacient to cover edges, thru woods and brush. The manuufactured outriggers that extend to the side would not work on those trails. They be ok in wide open expanses I guess.
My outriggers will pull out to the length of the square tubing they're seated in by pulling a coupling pin, but I rarely do. It's easy to road six dogs of coupler, but unless you are a pro most folks don't need to.
I'll often plant birds in launchers off the trail in the cover nearby and set up training situations as we road. Sometimes using electronic launchers and popup dog for pointing, backing, and stop to flush practice. The atv once the break is set makes a great land anchor for those setups.
I vary the speed that the dogs road, usually building up to approx 6-8 miles at a dog trot of 7-9 miles per hour, then sprints up to approx 20 mph. Always carrying plenty of water in containers or canteens and a small 3 gallon hand sprayers to easily hose the dog's bellys while on the trail.
One of my atv's has a removable receiver mount for a winch.
This summer I'm going to make a aluminum pole like a horse buggy single tree to extend from the receiver mount forward and upward which will mount easily to the receiver mount with a single hitch pin.
Other suggestions for roading setups would be to use the shock absorber units for up to 6 dogs made by mushers to attach there sleds to the dogs gangline. Find those manufacturers at sleddogcentral.com
Use Italian bronze snaps instead of the cheap Malayan brass ones. And be sure to have a short length of safety cable snapped to act as a backup if the snaps wear and break under pulling pressure.
This safety has kept my dogs attached to the rig several times when snaps or rings have broken or come apart for some reason.
Roading rigs are great ways to train or condition hunting and trial dogs.
ps I've installed stealth mufflers to both my atvs and they cut the exhaust noise consideribly which improves the training experience.
I wanted my dogs to be UPFRONT as they would be when I road them from horseback or where they should be when hunting or trialing out of harness.
I wanted to get them used to hearing the commands; stepup, whoaup, alright, up-a-head, easy, gee, haw, etc from behind them.
My miles of mowed trails are narrow, not much wider then the atv itself and go adjacient to cover edges, thru woods and brush. The manuufactured outriggers that extend to the side would not work on those trails. They be ok in wide open expanses I guess.
My outriggers will pull out to the length of the square tubing they're seated in by pulling a coupling pin, but I rarely do. It's easy to road six dogs of coupler, but unless you are a pro most folks don't need to.
I'll often plant birds in launchers off the trail in the cover nearby and set up training situations as we road. Sometimes using electronic launchers and popup dog for pointing, backing, and stop to flush practice. The atv once the break is set makes a great land anchor for those setups.
I vary the speed that the dogs road, usually building up to approx 6-8 miles at a dog trot of 7-9 miles per hour, then sprints up to approx 20 mph. Always carrying plenty of water in containers or canteens and a small 3 gallon hand sprayers to easily hose the dog's bellys while on the trail.
One of my atv's has a removable receiver mount for a winch.
This summer I'm going to make a aluminum pole like a horse buggy single tree to extend from the receiver mount forward and upward which will mount easily to the receiver mount with a single hitch pin.
Other suggestions for roading setups would be to use the shock absorber units for up to 6 dogs made by mushers to attach there sleds to the dogs gangline. Find those manufacturers at sleddogcentral.com
Use Italian bronze snaps instead of the cheap Malayan brass ones. And be sure to have a short length of safety cable snapped to act as a backup if the snaps wear and break under pulling pressure.
This safety has kept my dogs attached to the rig several times when snaps or rings have broken or come apart for some reason.
Roading rigs are great ways to train or condition hunting and trial dogs.
ps I've installed stealth mufflers to both my atvs and they cut the exhaust noise consideribly which improves the training experience.