How to grow and manage food plots.

That IS good. Thanks for posting it.

Thanks for the food plot info, I have tried for the past two years to get a clover field going and all I come up with is weeds and veery little clover . I will try again this spring.

I plant my clover real heavy, let it and the weeds come up to about knee high, then mow it off. The clover eventually chokes out most of the weeds. Mow it a couple times per year and you'll have a nice patch.

Yep agree with above. I also spray for grass in spring. As well as re-fertilize and lime 0-15-15 on fertilizer 100 lbs acre each spring and fall. Clover produce's own nitrogen. Don't add nitrogen fertilizer or yoy will have a grass and or weed problem. Have a imperial whitetail clover plot now that is 6 year's old and it's doing great still.

elrod grain can get it for you also Terry Eaglin in versailles can get it. Just tell him what you need and he will have it delivered to versailles location.

A little cool, but pretty nice dry weekend.
I got 5-6 acres of white clover planted in (4) different patches. If that takes off good, maybe the deer won't hammer my beans so hard when they first start coming up.

It's been so long ago I forgot about it. I wonder if it was this one?

extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/PB1769.pdf

Since the topic got brought up I'll share my absolute favorite and best way I've found to get clover plots going.

First is the fall planting...assuming you've done soil tests and such let's hit ground running.

Come mid summer, I'm mowing the plot with a brush hog, if no brush hog you can keep spot scorched to death with gly.

Apply gly no matter what to scorch what growth is there few weeks prior to planned planting.

Disc or till plot at appropriate times for your area in fall (Last week of August - Mid-September for me).

Plant 100 total pounds of cereal grains, with at least a 1/4 of those being oats (they pop quick, provide great early food source and let other seeds grow some) + at least 1/2 in winter rye (weed inhibitor the following spring to a degree which is going to be crucial) + IF desired add in winter wheat for a further option.

The wheat and rye both (unless crazy cold happens which can kill the wheat) will re-grow the following year in the spring...and will provide GREAT competition to the clover trying to establish.

Plant whatever recommend rate of your choice of clover or clover mix. Typically ranges from 4-9 pounds. I prefer varieties that include some crimson because that will likely not re-seed a ton BUT will be a favorite in the fall minimizing other slower clovers getting hit too hard.

Obviously fertilize according to plant requirements, remember nitrogen is fixed by the clover but some of that won't be fully developed so that first fall if fertilizer has some light levels of nitrogen not going to worry about it.

The following spring I am frost seeding about half the recommended rate of clovers before spring green into this plot.

Once spring green explosion starts you will see eventually cereal grains going to head and clover controlling the understory of the plot. I have done both; wait to mow/trim plot before cereal grain heads out or wait till it does...all depends on mowing ability and if growth is getting too high and will put down too much thatch (some is good as will suppress weed growth).

After this mowing you'll notice clover will be established more and within a few weeks you'll also see if any non-desirable grasses are popping up, HIT WITH CLETHODIM.

I don't worry about broadleaf "weeds" at all as most are desirable brows to deer...thistles are perhaps the only exception and I'll specifically spot spray it alone.

After this proper mowing and clethodim treatments along with some frost seeding will keep a clover plot going for years.