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Post by span870 on Jul 28, 2019 11:45:56 GMT -5
Husqvarna 460. Chain will not stay tight more than one cut. Thought maybe tensioning screw as I broke one a couple years ago. Wasn't broke but changed out anyway. Still same. Next step sproket? Does look like it has some grooves in it but not bad enough I'd think to cause this issue. I do run the saw hard. Any tips?
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Post by esshup on Jul 28, 2019 11:55:42 GMT -5
Here are things I do with my saws when tightening the chain.
1) Put chain on, get it relatively tight and run the saw for 5 seconds or so to get the chain to seat on the moving parts. Not cutting anything, just get a couple of revolutions on it under power. Then go to step 2.
2) When tightening the chain with the adjusting screw, loosen the nuts so they are "snug". Support just the tip of the bar on something, and have the back of the saw supported by your hand. You want upward pressure on the bar, not downward pressure by gravity. Then tighten chain to the desired amount of slop, and tighten the nuts with the tip of the bar still supported by something.
3) Make sure all the mating parts are clean of wood debris and junk. Flip bar over every time you need to sharpen or change the chain. I'll clean out the groove on the bar with a pocket knife or something like that too, and clean all the junk out from around where the bar meets the body of the saw.
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Post by span870 on Jul 28, 2019 12:07:18 GMT -5
Here are things I do with my saws when tightening the chain. 1) Put chain on, get it relatively tight and run the saw for 5 seconds or so to get the chain to seat on the moving parts. Not cutting anything, just get a couple of revolutions on it under power. Then go to step 2. 2) When tightening the chain with the adjusting screw, loosen the nuts so they are "snug". Support just the tip of the bar on something, and have the back of the saw supported by your hand. You want upward pressure on the bar, not downward pressure by gravity. Then tighten chain to the desired amount of slop, and tighten the nuts with the tip of the bar still supported by something. 3) Make sure all the mating parts are clean of wood debris and junk. Flip bar over every time you need to sharpen or change the chain. I'll clean out the groove on the bar with a pocket knife or something like that too, and clean all the junk out from around where the bar meets the body of the saw. Do all that. Something is broke or out. Had no issue while cutting up two maple trees. Went to cut another tree for a neighbor and starting having issues. It's not just loose, it will loosen up enough that it hangs off a good inch or two after a long cut.
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Post by esshup on Jul 28, 2019 12:18:40 GMT -5
Dang, that's a lot of movement. I'm lost. Do you have a 2nd bar for it and more than 1 chain?
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Post by span870 on Jul 28, 2019 12:25:14 GMT -5
Plenty of chains. Bar is about two trees into being new. Chain is very new. You think the chain is stretching that bad? Never had one do it that bad. Come to think of it seems that it probably started with the new chain.
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Post by deadeer on Jul 28, 2019 13:17:53 GMT -5
Never seen one sag that much. Chains do stretch, but not that much and go back to normal. I have 2 chains that need a half or whole link taken out now, not enough adjustment left to use. With good oil, you should adjust where you can barely turn the chain by hand. I thought that was too tight at first but been good for years now. They do say to loosen when you are done for the day to take stress off the crank.
I cut 20 cords for 8 years straight with an outdoor boiler. Prior and again now 3-5 cords for about 25yrs +. Been thru a few saws and chains.
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Post by whitetaildave24 on Jul 28, 2019 16:02:27 GMT -5
I have a husquavarna 18” saw that does the same thing. Chain will just not stay right no matter what I do. I said forget that and went and bought a stihl.
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Post by esshup on Jul 28, 2019 19:00:17 GMT -5
I don't think new chains "stretch" so much (they ain't made from rubber) as much as all the new pivot points wearing in and the slack that is generated is all those links each wearing .0005" to .001" off of all the high points of the mating surfaces.
If there's enough pressure or heat and pressure to make the metal chain go from an elastic state to a plastic state then there are bigger problems afoot.
You using good oil and enough of it on the chain? You still needing to fill the oil reservoir when you need to fill the gas tank?
I've cut a LOT of wood and have only had one bar go bad on me - the sprocket axle broke or wore through. I can't tell you how many chains I've wore out and I have a number of chains. 3 saws, 2 saws have two different length bars each. Last spool of chain I bought I had cryogenically treated. Seems to last longer due to our sandy soils - I run semi-chisel chain.
What brand of chain? (curiosity more then anything else)
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Post by span870 on Jul 28, 2019 19:36:53 GMT -5
I have a husquavarna 18” saw that does the same thing. Chain will just not stay right no matter what I do. I said forget that and went and bought a stihl. Thought about that but if I bought a Stihl I'd be on here complaining about not having enough power to cut through a sapling.😁😁😁
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Post by span870 on Jul 28, 2019 19:43:59 GMT -5
I don't think new chains "stretch" so much (they ain't made from rubber) as much as all the new pivot points wearing in and the slack that is generated is all those links each wearing .0005" to .001" off of all the high points of the mating surfaces. If there's enough pressure or heat and pressure to make the metal chain go from an elastic state to a plastic state then there are bigger problems afoot. You using good oil and enough of it on the chain? You still needing to fill the oil reservoir when you need to fill the gas tank? I've cut a LOT of wood and have only had one bar go bad on me - the sprocket axle broke or wore through. I can't tell you how many chains I've wore out and I have a number of chains. 3 saws, 2 saws have two different length bars each. Last spool of chain I bought I had cryogenically treated. Seems to last longer due to our sandy soils - I run semi-chisel chain. What brand of chain? (curiosity more then anything else) Use Stihl bar and chain oil exclusively. Never switch back and forth. Doubt it makes any difference but what I do. Uses oil maybe a bit less than every fuel fill, may have less than 1/4 full if that but has always been about same since I bought it. I did put on the old chain and it didn't seem to get as bad. Did seem that it would be a bit loose then I'd cut a bit more and it tighten up. I marked the bar and the bar wasn't moving at all. The only thing I could think is it is moving on the sproket somehow but I would think that I'd have the same reaction with the new chain. I'm done for the day but I'm going to pull the old chain and compare the new and see if for some reason they are not the same size. It's an Oregon chain, about all I use.
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Post by duff on Jul 28, 2019 20:43:12 GMT -5
I have a husquavarna 18” saw that does the same thing. Chain will just not stay right no matter what I do. I said forget that and went and bought a stihl. Thought about that but if I bought a Stihl I'd be on here complaining about not having enough power to cut through a sapling.😁😁😁 I am not surprised to here this coming from a beagle chasing dodge driving knuckle dragging moth breather! No help on the saw.
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Post by span870 on Jul 29, 2019 5:11:05 GMT -5
Thought about that but if I bought a Stihl I'd be on here complaining about not having enough power to cut through a sapling.😁😁😁 I am not surprised to here this coming from a beagle chasing dodge driving knuckle dragging moth breather! No help on the saw. *Hear *Mouth Need I say more?
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Post by treetop on Jul 29, 2019 15:29:49 GMT -5
Just a guess but is the bar hooked/ latching on the set pin
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Post by span870 on Jul 29, 2019 18:23:40 GMT -5
Yep. Checked the chains today and they are the same size. I'm clueless at this point.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2019 19:35:28 GMT -5
Did you check the sprocket if it spins straight?. Might be wobbling. Only thing I could think of.
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Post by nfalls116 on Jul 29, 2019 20:20:57 GMT -5
Did you put old chain back on and see if that changes anything?
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Post by duff on Jul 30, 2019 4:01:36 GMT -5
Did you try breathing through your nose
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Post by greyhair on Jul 30, 2019 13:58:01 GMT -5
Had a Poulan that did this. It was the adjusting bolt that was slightly worn and would jump a thread or two under vibration. Drove me nuts for a while...
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Post by bartiks on Aug 4, 2019 13:29:14 GMT -5
I've worked with saws for several years. I think everything here has been covered. Did you count the drags on the chain and see if they match up with what the saw requires? Also when you tighten the chain, the way I've done it is, with the nuts loose on the side cover,not snug, lift up the tip until just the bottom of the drags are in the grooves on the chain and then still holding up the tip snug down the nuts. As vibration sets in your bar will gradually settle and will the tighten the chain until it's comfortable. Other than that I"m stumped.
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