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Post by Deleted on Jul 17, 2012 17:43:09 GMT -5
For how long is it ok to leave a muzzleloader loaded? If you hunt a day without a shot, do you leave the load in it and hunt again the next day?
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Post by cedarthicket on Jul 17, 2012 18:38:12 GMT -5
The following is something I posted last December to the thread just below this one. You may want to read the whole thread for more ideas.
"I have used real black powder for all my ML deer hunting for the last 45 years. It has never given me a miss fire, or even a hang fire. (Real black powder is easier to ignite than any of the substitutes.) I have shot black powder in traditional side lock rifles as well as in-line rifles. Some of the side lock rifles were of the drum and nipple configuration in which there are two (2) roughly 90 degree turns in the flash channel between the nipple and the main powder charge. The secret to reliable ignition lies in cleaning the rifle of all dirt and oil (including the bore, nipple, threads, and flash channel). Then, and only then, load your favorite powder charge (whether real black powder or one of the substitutes) and projectile. Do NOT pop a cap just before loading! To help protect the bore of a non-stainless steel barrel from rusting you may wish to run a lightly oiled or greased patch down the bore AFTER loading the rifle.
Then, assuming you do not get water in the bore or flash channel, or bring the loaded rifle into a warm humid house to "sweat" like a glass of ice tea on a humid July afternoon, your rifle should instantly do your bidding when you “drop the hammer” on a deer. This should be true whether your first shot is taken in the morning of opening day or 15 days later in late afternoon of the last day of the season.
Of course, you would remove the cap or primer from your rifle when done hunting for the day. And, if you do not fire the shot or otherwise unload the rifle, you must be sure that it is plainly marked as “loaded” for obvious safety reasons. One good method is to place the ramrod down the bore AND put a sign on it noting the rifle’s loaded condition.
I better stop before I get further off topic."
Hope this helps. Good luck this fall.
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Post by Woody Williams on Jul 17, 2012 18:47:11 GMT -5
The following is something I posted last December to the thread just below this one. You may want to read the whole thread for more ideas. "I have used real black powder for all my ML deer hunting for the last 45 years. It has never given me a miss fire, or even a hang fire. (Real black powder is easier to ignite than any of the substitutes.) I have shot black powder in traditional side lock rifles as well as in-line rifles. Some of the side lock rifles were of the drum and nipple configuration in which there are two (2) roughly 90 degree turns in the flash channel between the nipple and the main powder charge. The secret to reliable ignition lies in cleaning the rifle of all dirt and oil (including the bore, nipple, threads, and flash channel). Then, and only then, load your favorite powder charge (whether real black powder or one of the substitutes) and projectile. Do NOT pop a cap just before loading! To help protect the bore of a non-stainless steel barrel from rusting you may wish to run a lightly oiled or greased patch down the bore AFTER loading the rifle. Then, assuming you do not get water in the bore or flash channel, or bring the loaded rifle into a warm humid house to "sweat" like a glass of ice tea on a humid July afternoon, your rifle should instantly do your bidding when you “drop the hammer” on a deer. This should be true whether your first shot is taken in the morning of opening day or 15 days later in late afternoon of the last day of the season. Of course, you would remove the cap or primer from your rifle when done hunting for the day. And, if you do not fire the shot or otherwise unload the rifle, you must be sure that it is plainly marked as “loaded” for obvious safety reasons. One good method is to place the ramrod down the bore AND put a sign on it noting the rifle’s loaded condition. I better stop before I get further off topic." Hope this helps. Good luck this fall. Good advice.. I've left mine loaded all season, but it stays in the truck the whole time.. I never bring it in the house...
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Post by oldhoyt on Jul 18, 2012 6:36:45 GMT -5
I follow the above advice - load the rifle on a clean, dry, OIL-FREE bore, and do not fire a cap before loading.
Then, dependig upon the conditions that I hunt in, I may remove the load before hunting again. Basically, I'll remove the load after any hunt in rain or drizzle. Normally I see no evidence that the gun would not have fired, but it's worth the piece of mind.
I don't oil the bore, even lightly, after loading. There's a chance that some of that oil will get past the bullet I shoot (Hornady FPB, no sabot) and ruin some of the powder charge. Also, I have not shot the gun that way and the oil could have some effect on the shot.
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Post by trapperdave on Jul 18, 2012 8:47:37 GMT -5
I once had a load in from one season to just before the next...10 months or so...still on target
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Post by jajwrigh on Jul 18, 2012 15:28:42 GMT -5
I shoot smokeless, but I will leave the gun loaded without the primer all season if I don't take a shot. It stays out of the safe and in a secure location in the garage. I used this same practice before shooting smokeless without any problems.
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Post by stevein on Jul 19, 2012 14:13:19 GMT -5
It is not uncommon to find originals with loads still in them. Guys I know that removed these loads find the powder to ignite just like fresh powder from the can. I load the night before opener. I plug the touch hole with a copper pin and place a stall on the frizzen. I have a red tag with LOADED on both sides I attach to the trigger guard. the rifle is put in a case and not messed with. I generally blow out the load with Co2 if I hunt in the rain and go over the rifle before reloading. I store loaded rifles in a canvas or blanket case when loaded. I bring them in the house and have never had a problem. A word of caution... If you ever purchase or otherwise have come across a loaded muzzleloader do not fire it to remove the load. You do not know the quantity or type of powder used to load it. Pull or use a Co2 discharger to remove the load. I once was asked to remove a load for a guy I worked with. He had 120 grains of Pyro a Buffalo bullet over 120 grains of Pyro and a Buffalo bullet. He thought the bullet got stuck so he brought it to me to remove. The load was from the last season.
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