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Post by imnatree on Dec 1, 2011 20:35:33 GMT -5
Found the ring that tightens down to the rear optical lense loose & rear optic had turned Does it matter how many threads r exposed? What does it change if any thing? FYI it's a leopold mark IV 4.5x14x40. How do I keep it from loosening in the future? Attachments:
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Post by danf on Dec 1, 2011 20:46:20 GMT -5
The eyepiece should rotate and serve as your focus adjustment. It should not matter how many threads are exposed as long as the scope is in focus for you.
From the bench, loosen the lock ring then line your scope up with the edge of your target. Slowly rotate the eyepiece in or out until good focus is achieved, then tighten up the lock ring. When the lock ring contacts the eyepiece, turn both of them into each other by hand as hard as you can. That should be more than enough to keep either from turning again. If it's not, I'd contact Leupold and see what they recommend.
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Post by imnatree on Dec 1, 2011 21:11:31 GMT -5
It has a focus dial opposite of the windage that I've been using. Does one focus the crosshairs and the other the optics? If so which is which. Since this occurred I've noticed that the crosshairs, horizontal line in particular, blurrs and isn't as destinct Attachments:
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Post by danf on Dec 1, 2011 21:52:49 GMT -5
The focus dial is to adjust parallex. You'll have to Google parallex to get a better idea of what it is- I don't feel like I have a good enough grasp on it to be able to explain it well.
You might check with Leupold and see how they recommend focusing the scope initially. Chances are you can find literature for that scope or others with a side focus on their website.
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Post by esshup on Dec 3, 2011 0:37:47 GMT -5
The occular eyepiece has the lockring and threads to get it focused for your eyes. To do this, make sure the gun is unloaded. Point the gun at the sky. Look thru the scope. If the crosshairs are blurry, take your eyes away from the scope and turn it one way a couple of turns. Keep playing with it, until the crosshairs are sharp and crisp when looking at the sky. You have to keep taking your eye off of the scope when adjusting it. If not, your eye will adjust to make the crosshairs crisp, then the next time you look thru it they'll be blurry. All you are concentrating on at this time is getting the crosshairs sharp and in focus, not the clouds or whatever else is in the sky.
Once the crosshairs are crisp, lock that ring down tight on the occular. Hold the occular to keep it from turning, and screw the ring against it as tight as you can without using any tools.
The side focus is to adjust parallax. You use that to make the target look sharp and clear. If the target isn't sharp and clear, there are times when it will seem that the crosshairs are in the center of the target when in reality they aren't. The parallax adjustment is more critical the higher you have the magnification set.
The two different adjustments accomplish two different things. One will not compensate for the other.
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Post by omegahunter on Dec 5, 2011 15:00:42 GMT -5
Great explanation, esshup.
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Post by swilk on Dec 5, 2011 19:18:41 GMT -5
Never owned a parallax adjustable scope but most I have seen are marked for correction at certain yardages.
Usually only found on scopes over 9x.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2011 19:23:23 GMT -5
Yes, because at lower powers, parrallax adjusts is not really critical. As for the rear eyepiece adjustment, you may find that as you get older, you may need to adjust this often, not just one time. I do. If someone else uses the rifle, they likely will need to adjust it to fit. It won't change point of impact.
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Post by dbd870 on Dec 6, 2011 5:36:58 GMT -5
Interesting; I figured they just got bumped.
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Post by jjas on Dec 15, 2011 12:07:04 GMT -5
Yes, because at lower powers, parrallax adjusts is not really critical. As for the rear eyepiece adjustment, you may find that as you get older, you may need to adjust this often, not just one time. I do. If someone else uses the rifle, they likely will need to adjust it to fit. It won't change point of impact. As far as the eyepiece adjustment I agree totally. That's why I like the european style of adjuster located @ the back of the eyepiece. Zeiss, Nikon and Vortex are three brands (among many) that utilize this style. It's becoming more and more common.
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