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Post by parson on Dec 1, 2010 15:14:30 GMT -5
I'm sure that many have picked up some tips over the years that would help increase chances for a successful black powder hunt.
Here's something that has helped me.
When I first started hunting with sidelock guns misfires were not unusual, especially in damp weather. I took an old Visine eye drop bottle, enlarged the opening, filled it with pyrodex. Every couple of hours I'd remove the nipple and dribble just a few particles of fresh powder in. Minuscule amounts will not impact performance.
I've never had a failure to fire since I started this.
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Post by Decatur on Dec 1, 2010 18:10:43 GMT -5
Keep it clean!
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Post by cedarthicket on Dec 1, 2010 22:15:55 GMT -5
Avoiding a miss fire or hang fire is of extreme importance to the muzzle loading (ML) firearm hunter.
I know a lot of people nowadays use the black powder (BP) substitutes. I will readily grant that some of them do foul less than the real thing. However, many of them are noticeably harder to ignite than real BP, enough so that sometimes you can get a very slight hang fire even in a clean gun. At least that is what I personally observed back when Pyrodex first came to market. Why do you think Pyrodex pellets were (maybe still are) coated with real black powder? And ignition systems were developed to use the "hotter" musket caps and even modern shotshell primers.
In 44 years of deer hunting with ML rifles I have never had a miss fire or hang fire while hunting with real BP. The key with BP (AND the BP substitutes) is to make sure the bore, breech, nipple, threads, etc. are clean, dry, and completely free of all oil. Take out the nipple in traditional ML rifles and take out the whole breech and nipple-primer assembly where easily done in the modern ML rifles. Degrease everything that may come in contact with powder, cap, primer, and the flash channel itself. Only when clean and dry reassemble for loading. And, DO NOT fire a cap or primer before loading. You will only be putting water absorbing residue or other particles into the worst possible place and may block or partially block the flash channel from the primer or cap to the powder charge.
As noted earlier, by following these procedures I have never had a miss fire or hang fire while deer hunting. And, I have sometimes left the ML rifle loaded (cap removed when not hunting of course) for the whole season -- rain, snow, or shine.
Another thing to avoid is bringing a very cold ML rifle directly inside a toasty warm house. That can result in water condensing on and in the rifle much like you see on the sides of a glass of ice tea in the summer time. Leave the rifle where it is relatively cool if possible, practical, and safe. Also, to be extra careful seriously consider getting a cloth rifle case or gun sock that can “breathe” and let the rifle come up to “room” temperature VERY slowly, thus preventing the dreaded condensation. You may even want to carry a blanket in your hunting vehicle that will come close to reaching the outside temperature while you are out hunting. Upon your return to the vehicle you can put your rifle in the cloth case or gun sock and wrap it in the blanket. This seems to work for me.
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Post by stevein on Dec 2, 2010 11:25:03 GMT -5
I use a similar procedure to cedarthicket. I use spray brake cleaner. I shoot a little down a plugged barrel and slosh it around a little. I spray a patch and pull the plug then push the patch down blowing the cleaner out through the touch hole or nipple. Don't try this with a tight dry patch or it will stick. Let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes before loading. I plug the touch hole with a copper pin I made from some house wire. I also use a stall (a leather cover that goes over the frizzen) on the frizzen. For caplocks I place a piece of leather over the nipple. I hang a LOADED TAG on the triggergaurd as a reminder it is charged. I have never had a problem with moisture when stored this way in a cloth bag. I bring my ML's inside all the time. If I feel I need to dump the load I use my CO2 ball discharger to blow the load out. This saves me much cleaning.
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Post by dead-eye on Dec 2, 2010 11:54:26 GMT -5
another thing that is wise to do is load the gun. push the ramrod down to the bullet and mark a ring around the ramrod at the end of the barrel with a paint marker. this will ensure the powder and bullet are seated all the way down every time. if there is something wrong you will know right away.
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Post by parson on Dec 2, 2010 12:14:33 GMT -5
Yep, carp killer. The old timers call this a "witness mark" Helps guard against overloads or short loads.
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Post by hornharvester on Dec 2, 2010 13:05:43 GMT -5
Fire a couple caps or primers to clean out any oil left in the nipple and breech area. After doing this make sure the hole for the primer flame isn't plugged. On in-lines simply look down the barrel, if you see light its open. Dry patch the barrel a couple times after doing this to clean out the primer residue. Load it and make sure you've seated the bullet/sabot. As said above a witness mark on the ramrod is a must.
If its a wet day put something over the end of your barrel like a finger cut off a disposable latex glove or a piece of plastic wrap and a rubber band. This keeps any water from running down the barrel. If there is snow in the trees be careful snow doest fall down your barrel. h.h.
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Post by dead-eye on Dec 2, 2010 13:45:51 GMT -5
i put a piece of tape across the end of the barrel to keep moisture out. doesnt affect the shot in any way.
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Post by oneshot on Dec 3, 2010 6:47:27 GMT -5
After loading and taking the gun hunting keep the gun in the cold. Don't bring in the house or a warm vehicle. This will prevent condensation in the barrel.
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Post by oneshot on Dec 3, 2010 15:47:25 GMT -5
Another one. for you guys using side locks and # 11 cap. Remove nipple and put some powder in and grind the nipple down on powder. It will probably go off when you shoot.
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Post by steve46511 on Dec 3, 2010 15:59:00 GMT -5
"for you guys using side locks and # 11 cap. Remove nipple and put some powder in and grind the nipple down on powder" (but I only use enough I can see it, not fill it)
X2 !!! Beat me too it, Oneshot.
Take lots of extra loads........don't wanna run out!!, and if you have a set trigger USE IT. Half the reason I don't have a new inline. Triggers stink after using a set trigger for 27 years.
Might be just me LOL God Bless Steve
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Post by Decatur on Dec 3, 2010 18:40:08 GMT -5
[quote author=steve46511 board=mz thread=35514 post=280422 time=1291409940
You need to shoot a Savage with an Accutrigger then!
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Post by kodiak50 on Dec 4, 2010 7:10:18 GMT -5
Or the new CVA Accura Accura V2 or Optima. All have great factory triggers.
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Post by huxbux on Dec 4, 2010 10:49:34 GMT -5
Keep your powder dry.
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Post by stevein on Dec 4, 2010 14:17:34 GMT -5
That is a sure way to create a hang fire. Tight compacted powder will slow ignition not help it. Plus crushed black powder removes the glazing and aids in moisture getting to the powder. I do not believe the one about leaving your rifle out in the cold. I have never experienced the moisture draw problem with my cap or flint guns. With the hammer set down over a patch or piece of leather on a nipple or the touch-hole plugged where can moisture get in from? If bringing it in causes misfires you have other problems. I have a squeaky clean bore with no powder residue.
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Post by oneshot on Dec 5, 2010 14:55:21 GMT -5
That is a sure way to create a hang fire. Tight compacted powder will slow ignition not help it. Plus crushed black powder removes the glazing and aids in moisture getting to the powder. I do not believe the one about leaving your rifle out in the cold. I have never experienced the moisture draw problem with my cap or flint guns. With the hammer set down over a patch or piece of leather on a nipple or the touch-hole plugged where can moisture get in from? If bringing it in causes misfires you have other problems. I have a squeaky clean bore with no powder residue. When I shot a side lock and using Pyrodex powder I never failed to have instant ignition by grinding the nipple down on the powder. So it worked forme. [don't know nothing about black powder]
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Post by steve46511 on Dec 7, 2010 8:41:01 GMT -5
A buddy perweighs his powder and puts it in penny roll papers and tapes the end shut and carries them in a small prescription bottle. Simply tear open and pour.
He also has his capper on a string around his neck instead of digging in his pocket.
I told him he could carry his bullets in his mouth too......make it faster LOL
God Bless steve
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2010 16:12:37 GMT -5
buy a savage! no worrys about moisture or cleaning with smokeless powder. just make sure to use hot primers as smokeless is harder to light.
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Post by old3arrows on Dec 16, 2010 17:23:47 GMT -5
Which hot primers are you using in your Savage?
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Post by realhunter on Dec 17, 2010 7:17:18 GMT -5
Which hot primers are you using in your Savage? I use standard Winchester 209 primers, never had a missfire... Hottest primers are Federal 209A, and CCI 209M
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