|
|
Post by stevein on Jan 28, 2023 9:28:28 GMT -5
I recently picked up a BPS 12 ga. It Came with only the tube installed. I held my breath and put a quarter in the removal slots and gave it a twist. Came right out after using my Leatherman.
There are no markings on the tube except for a single small notch on the muzzle end. I remember reading something about the number of notches would tell me what choke I have. Just wanting to get a few more for it. It is the first version of the Invector.
Thanks in Advance, Steve
|
|
|
|
Post by greghopper on Jan 28, 2023 9:47:13 GMT -5
If it’s a 12 gauge you can drop a dime In barrel at receiver end and see if it falls through…. A full choke will stop a dime where choke starts
|
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Jan 28, 2023 13:01:16 GMT -5
If it’s a 12 gauge you can drop a dime In barrel at receiver end and see if it falls through…. A full choke will stop a dime where choke starts Not necessarily true. Most modern Browning shotguns are back bored, with a barrel ID of 0.742" A full choke has a .0.035" constriction. So that would put the choke @ 0.707" where a dime is typically 0.705" Now the older 12 ga guns have a bore ID of 0.724" but Browning was the first company to start back boring their barrels. They started in 1989 and fully converted to ALL 12 ga shotguns being back bored in 1995. So, Greg could be correct if your BPS was made before 1989, and I would check the ID of the shotgun bore with a snap gauge if it was made between 1989 and 1995. Browning introduced the Invector Plus choke tube system in their 1989 shotguns. The Invector Plus choke tube system was available first on BT-99 models and then the BPS and high grade doubles. So, if your gun has the Invector Plus choke tube system, then you have a back bored barrel. Here is some information for you regarding Browning choke tubes, and choke tubes in general. Browning Choke Tube Identification and what the markings mean. Choke tube constrictions (if you have a set of calipers to measure them)What is a back bored barrel and why?Now with all that said, don't believe ALL the advertising hype about Browning back bored barrels. I have a Stan Baker Big Bore Barrel for my Remington 1100, and made a "Big Bore Barrel" for my Model 12. Stan Baker made the Big Bore Barrel by cutting off the Remington barrel at the end of the chamber and threading on a 10 ga back bored barrel that had an ID of 0.800" which is the same ID as a 12 ga chamber. I made my barrel by ordering a barrel blank from Green Mountain with 10 ga O.D> Dimension but with a 12 ga ID. I then reamed out the barrel to .800" ID, stopping a few inches before where the choke tubes started. I left a 2" portion of the barrel in front of the choke tubes at 0.775" then threaded the barrel to accept the choke tubes that I had from Stan Baker, which is very similar to the style that is used in the Mossberg 835 but are about 3/4" shorter. I can use choke tubes for the 835 in it, but they stick out of the barrel and look weird. Patterns were better with the Big Bore Barrel, but the choke constrictions were WAY different than the 12 ga barrels (much greater constriction to get the same pattern density as a full choke 12 ga.). Velocities were much greater too, I was getting 1250 fps from Winchester AA Handicap loads in my Browning Citori with back bored barrels, but in the Baker Big Bore barrel I was seeing 1310 fps. |
|
|
|
Post by greghopper on Jan 28, 2023 13:18:23 GMT -5
Thanks for information on back boring ….it’s always interesting checking a full choke on shotguns with a dime
|
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Jan 28, 2023 14:58:45 GMT -5
Thanks for information on back boring ….it’s always interesting checking a full choke on shotguns with a dime On my Stan Baker Big Bore barrel, a dime will fall through the full choke. A penny will get caught on the full choke, but not on the modified choke. If I take the choke tube out I can fit a 12 ga shell in the barrel at the nuzzle, but the rim stops it from sliding down. |
|
|
|
Post by parrothead on Jan 28, 2023 20:13:43 GMT -5
My turkey gun is a Browning Gold Invector Plus Great gun
|
|
|
|
Post by stevein on Jan 28, 2023 23:55:34 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Jan 29, 2023 0:21:01 GMT -5
Yep. If you open the first link that I posted and scroll down towards the bottom, that same info is there. |
|
|
|
Post by stevein on Jan 30, 2023 14:05:56 GMT -5
I usually download Owners manuals on every gun I buy. Sometimes there is something different from similar guns.
It seems like every auto loading pistol has a different method of taking the slide off.
|
|
|
|
Post by (Not Ronald) Reagan on Feb 2, 2023 9:51:19 GMT -5
Invector + or DS? I'm about to burn my 725 at the stake so have a few that may work if its a DS.
|
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Feb 2, 2023 10:57:28 GMT -5
Invector + or DS? I'm about to burn my 725 at the stake so have a few that may work if its a DS. Why don't you like your 725? |
|
|
|
Post by (Not Ronald) Reagan on Feb 2, 2023 13:30:56 GMT -5
Invector + or DS? I'm about to burn my 725 at the stake so have a few that may work if its a DS. Why don't you like your 725? I've had the wood crack on it two times. The first time they had it for 8 months, and after hounding them they just sent me a new one. It was a beautiful cherry walnut grade 5... They sent me the cheapest lowest end one they could find. Then a few summers ago I had the same thing happen again on the stock and full trigger area cracked. It took them a full year... I'm over it. If someone wasn't a competition shooter it probably wouldn't be an issue, but the firing pins and ejectors wear very fast. That and their service/customer service department has been absolutely pathetic. |
|
|
|
Post by stevein on Feb 2, 2023 16:11:49 GMT -5
Invector + or DS? I'm about to burn my 725 at the stake so have a few that may work if its a DS. Investor. I am seeing a lot of sets for doubles. I do not really need 2 of everything. When ,I find a deal I may put extras up for sale. |
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Feb 2, 2023 16:56:56 GMT -5
Why don't you like your 725? I've had the wood crack on it two times. The first time they had it for 8 months, and after hounding them they just sent me a new one. It was a beautiful cherry walnut grade 5... They sent me the cheapest lowest end one they could find. Then a few summers ago I had the same thing happen again on the stock and full trigger area cracked. It took them a full year... I'm over it. If someone wasn't a competition shooter it probably wouldn't be an issue, but the firing pins and ejectors wear very fast. That and their service/customer service department has been absolutely pathetic. That sucks. How many rounds do you put thru it every year? What's the round count now? I have a Browning Citori that I use for Sporting Clays. It's the Sporting Clays model, Golden Clays edition and the wood is really nice. I had the Shotgun Shop in Azuza, Ca lengthen and polish the forcing cones, I have a complete set of Extended Briley chokes with duplicates for most of the chokes, It's has a Super Gooey Pad recoil pad, a Jones Anyway recoil pad adjuster and I sent it to Portland Oregon to have an adjustable cheek piece SoftTouch Recoil Reduction System put in the stock. When I first bought it I was having problems with shooting it (my scores were lower than with the Nikko Golden Eagle) and I was at Allen Timney's house with a shooting buddy when he was having Allen install a release trigger in his Citori. I had Allen look at both guns and the Browning had 1/2 pound heavier trigger - he adjusted it and it's been flawless ever since. I have not had a problem with the stock. I was doing a LOT of shooting out West, shooting the shotgun games like Annie Oakley's, etc. in addition to trap, skeet, doubles trap, international trap and of course Sporting Clays. The first 6 years I had it I was averaging 22,000 rounds a year, and a lot of the rounds were pretty heavy. My go-to load for shooting the games was 1 3/8 #6 @ 1,380 fps - it was listed in the Federal Reloading book using the FGM Paper hull, Blue-Dot powder, etc. One weekend a month a buddy and I would hit the shoot at 2 different ranges, and I could shoot 500 rounds that day if I was doing well. I did have a problem with the top barrel not hitting the primers hard enough and when I was at the Grand I had Browning look at it. A part of the tip of the firing pin broke off, they fixed it, replaced all the springs and all the firing pins. IIRC it was $45 and they did it in less than an hour. A few years later the forend got tight on the barrels, and I stopped by the Browning booth at the Grand 2nd time to have them look at it. They removed some wood from inside the forend, replaced all the springs and firing pins again, and it was around an hour and $75. If I was you, and the gun fits you, I'd stop at a custom gunstock maker like Wenig there in Illinois and have them custom make a stock for ya. Something isn't quite right with the metal to wood fit on the gun, and that is why it's cracking. You getting your gun back with a lesser grade stock is why I won't send my Browning A-Bolt Mountain Ti back to them to have the Duratouch stock replaced by them. The contract that they want me to sign says that if they can't replace the stock they will replace the whole rifle and they don't make the A-Bolt Mountain Ti any more. I'd be getting a lesser gun back if they couldn't replace the stock. SO, I will buy a stock myself to replace it. |
|
|
|
Post by (Not Ronald) Reagan on Feb 2, 2023 18:54:50 GMT -5
I've had the wood crack on it two times. The first time they had it for 8 months, and after hounding them they just sent me a new one. It was a beautiful cherry walnut grade 5... They sent me the cheapest lowest end one they could find. Then a few summers ago I had the same thing happen again on the stock and full trigger area cracked. It took them a full year... I'm over it. If someone wasn't a competition shooter it probably wouldn't be an issue, but the firing pins and ejectors wear very fast. That and their service/customer service department has been absolutely pathetic. That sucks. How many rounds do you put thru it every year? What's the round count now? I have a Browning Citori that I use for Sporting Clays. It's the Sporting Clays model, Golden Clays edition and the wood is really nice. I had the Shotgun Shop in Azuza, Ca lengthen and polish the forcing cones, I have a complete set of Extended Briley chokes with duplicates for most of the chokes, It's has a Super Gooey Pad recoil pad, a Jones Anyway recoil pad adjuster and I sent it to Portland Oregon to have an adjustable cheek piece SoftTouch Recoil Reduction System put in the stock. When I first bought it I was having problems with shooting it (my scores were lower than with the Nikko Golden Eagle) and I was at Allen Timney's house with a shooting buddy when he was having Allen install a release trigger in his Citori. I had Allen look at both guns and the Browning had 1/2 pound heavier trigger - he adjusted it and it's been flawless ever since. I have not had a problem with the stock. I was doing a LOT of shooting out West, shooting the shotgun games like Annie Oakley's, etc. in addition to trap, skeet, doubles trap, international trap and of course Sporting Clays. The first 6 years I had it I was averaging 22,000 rounds a year, and a lot of the rounds were pretty heavy. My go-to load for shooting the games was 1 3/8 #6 @ 1,380 fps - it was listed in the Federal Reloading book using the FGM Paper hull, Blue-Dot powder, etc. One weekend a month a buddy and I would hit the shoot at 2 different ranges, and I could shoot 500 rounds that day if I was doing well. I did have a problem with the top barrel not hitting the primers hard enough and when I was at the Grand I had Browning look at it. A part of the tip of the firing pin broke off, they fixed it, replaced all the springs and all the firing pins. IIRC it was $45 and they did it in less than an hour. A few years later the forend got tight on the barrels, and I stopped by the Browning booth at the Grand 2nd time to have them look at it. They removed some wood from inside the forend, replaced all the springs and firing pins again, and it was around an hour and $75. If I was you, and the gun fits you, I'd stop at a custom gunstock maker like Wenig there in Illinois and have them custom make a stock for ya. Something isn't quite right with the metal to wood fit on the gun, and that is why it's cracking. You getting your gun back with a lesser grade stock is why I won't send my Browning A-Bolt Mountain Ti back to them to have the Duratouch stock replaced by them. The contract that they want me to sign says that if they can't replace the stock they will replace the whole rifle and they don't make the A-Bolt Mountain Ti any more. I'd be getting a lesser gun back if they couldn't replace the stock. SO, I will buy a stock myself to replace it. I was talking with them about a potential sponsorship, but that ship has sailed. For a while I was shooting around 50K a year I’d guess. But the second gun had maybe 25K before it died. It’s already custom fit from Browning, and it’s their fault and should fix it/pay for it when it breaks. I switched to beretta and it’s the best move I’ve ever made |
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Feb 2, 2023 22:46:57 GMT -5
Beretta is good sponsorship wise to their people. Good luck!! What clays do you shoot?
|
|
