New deer round

Let me look up SAAMI specs. O.K., just as I thought. Technically ALL of the so called "straight walled" cartridges are tapered, that is required to get them out of the chamber easier once they are fired. It may only be a thousanth of an inch or less, but they ARE tapered. The SAAMI drawing shows the case body just in front of the base to be slightly larger than the case body at the mouth of the case.

BUT, when people talk about "Straight-Walled" cartridges, they are usually talking about cartridges such as the 45-70, 45 long colt, etc, vs. a cartridge that is considered a "bottleneck" cartridge that has a definite shoulder and neck. Such as a .243, .308, etc. Those so called "bottleneck" cartridges also have a tapered body, or they would be impossible to get out of the chamber once fired.

Does that answer your question?

I wonder why they did not use the .450 Marlin? They would not have to mod cartridges like they do now.

No kidding. That price would buy a beautiful Weatherby with a Zeiss scope.

I agree with you. What people don't realize is that despite being able to gauge drop easily, the more the bullet drops the more the wind affects it which isn't so easy to judge.

My "long range shooting" rifle drops 12 feet at 1,000 yds from a 300 yd. zero. No way would I even consider doing "kentucky windage" for even a 24" drop, I dial the turret, even though I have 1 moa hash marks on the vertical part of the reticle. I dial the turret for windage too if required, or use the 2 moa hash marks on the horizontal part of the reticle.

The scope has a zero stop for vertical, so I just set the zero stop 2 moa below the "0" mark on the turret for my 300 yd zero. That way I can always find zero quickly. I've NEVER had to go more than a few MOA to adjust for windage, and I have gotten into the habit of ALWAYS turning the windage turret back to zero after shooting. That way I don't have to wonder where the windage zero is.

I remember that post, you did well!!! With the number of scopes I have it would be pretty expensive to switch now. Plus learn a new system.

I have a Nightforce NSX 5.5-22x50 with NPR-1 reticle on the long range gun, a Viper PSTII PST-5255 3-25x50 FFP EBR-2C (MOA) for another gun, a Athelon Argos 6-30x50 AHMR1 SFP MOA Reticle for getting guns dialed in group wise, and countless Leupold scopes with at least one Burris and one Swarovski scope thrown in the mix. All MOA scopes.

I have a Swarovski 1500 rangefinder (in good light conditions it will read to 1,999 yds), and use either Exbal or Applied Ballistics App depending if I am at the range with my laptop or out in the field.

I know that the long range gun shoots 2 moa high for the first shot from a clean cold barrel. I whacked a coyote at 867 yds with what I thought was a 10 mph cross wind with the gun one year and it was a good 9 months since I had shot it before. I mis-judged the wind a bit, so instead of putting the bullet on the shoulder, it hit the last rib. It was a dead 'yote anyway, getting whacked with a 180g bullet at impact with 2308 fps and 2128 fpe of energy.

Like I said, bullet drop is no big deal to figure out, it's the wind that will bite you in the butt.

Gotta read mirage, grass, trees, etc. ANYTHING that will help. If the wind is coming at you, and there is a hill between you and the target the wind will push the bullet up as well. One day at the range 400 yds there was a full value wind going from left to right, at 800 yds it was 100% the opposite direction (wind flags every 50 yds).

The bullet trace from a buddy's .308 going out to 1K looked like the letter S laid flat.