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Post by esshup on Sept 25, 2020 18:20:19 GMT -5
O.K., I'll admit it, I'm an accuracy nut. What started out in rifles carried over to the crossbow. I know what it takes to be accurate with a rifle, from good consistent components to consistently holding the rifle the same way.
What do ya'll consider to be good accuracy when shooting from a good rest, and at what distance?
A great friend let me borrow his "extra" crossbow. It's supposed to be a lot quieter than my Barnett Revolution and it has a better trigger. More weight to pull, but no creep, not like the mile long creep my Barnett has.
I thought it was about the same noise out of the box as my Barnett was with all the stuff I could do to it to quiet it down (even filling the stock with expandable foam).
I first got it dialed in with the 100g field points. Then I wanted to put illuminated nocks on the arrows, and when I did that the groups at 50 yds opened up to about 4"-6". So, I switched to 125g field points and the groups shrank back to about 2 1/2" Supposedly it's going around 330 fps with the 100g broadhead. Still was a bit noisy (I thought) so I went and got a set of zebra string leeches and a set of Limbsaver dampers for the limbs. It's shooting a bit low with the different weight heads, so I just left it alone because I thought it'd slow down even more with the sound/vibration stuff.
I was right, it was shooting low, so I adjusted the scope down to about 290 fps. Still not happy with the group size so I started weighing the components. It ended up that there is about a 3-5 grain difference in the arrows and practice heads. I found the difference was mostly with the points and not with the arrows (they were within 1 grain of each other.)
So I shot one arrow, noted where it hit, brought it back, unscrewed the practice point and screwed that to another arrow and shot it. Doing it that way, all the arrows went into the same hole in the target, an inch or so in diameter at 50 yds and no wind. So now it's off to Lowe's to find some small washers that I can trim down to fit behind the heads so I can match weight the arrows.
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Post by deadeer on Sept 25, 2020 23:41:40 GMT -5
Sounds like you got it figured out. Definately consistancy is the secret to success!
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Post by deadeer on Sept 25, 2020 23:44:02 GMT -5
I have found that the crossbow scope speed rings are rarely ever accurate. I am on several crossbow sites and it rings true throughout.
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Post by BOBinIN on Sept 27, 2020 16:45:07 GMT -5
While you are playing... try this. Put a flat nock on one arrow or if you don't have a flat, install a "front" insert to be the flat nock. Label each of the vanes on that arrow with a marker 1, 2 and 3. Now shoot each of the vanes down, 3 times at a small target and note where each impacts the target. You will see that you have 3 distinctly different groups. One of the 3 will likely be closer to your point of aim that the other two, circle or mark that vane and always use that vane down. Best way I know of to identify the best vane down for ultimate arrow accuracy. Good luck, BOB
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Post by esshup on Sept 27, 2020 23:12:02 GMT -5
While you are playing... try this. Put a flat nock on one arrow or if you don't have a flat, install a "front" insert to be the flat nock. Label each of the vanes on that arrow with a marker 1, 2 and 3. Now shoot each of the vanes down, 3 times at a small target and note where each impacts the target. You will see that you have 3 distinctly different groups. One of the 3 will likely be closer to your point of aim that the other two, circle or mark that vane and always use that vane down. Best way I know of to identify the best vane down for ultimate arrow accuracy. Good luck, BOB Bob, the arrows I'm using have the spine marked on them, and the fletching attached to the arrows in relationship to the spine, so they are all the same. camxcrossbows.com/pages/accuspine-arrows |
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Post by jonsnowii on Sept 28, 2020 7:43:52 GMT -5
I think it's wonderful that you desire that level of accuracy! With enough variables controlled it's possible at amazing lengths.
For me, I start to worry about "time to target" at those lengths. The bolt may be on target, but the target may move. There are some crossbow packages on the market that do reduce this time, just pricey.
Here's what I need and have: At 20yds, I can shoot a chipmunks head or quarter size target with either 445gr or 400gr bolts at same sight setting. Not only this, but my tripod had a rotating ball bottom. There's more movement than I'd like, but got the job done. This is the kind of flexibility I desire, because I don't have a shot over 20yds in my woods. Actually, a much cheaper Xbow than I have will do what I need.
With all that said, I admire your desire for perfection.
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Post by esshup on Sept 28, 2020 12:24:51 GMT -5
I completely agree with the TOF. I don't think I've shot a deer with the xbow more than 25-30 yds away.
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Post by omegahunter on Sept 28, 2020 12:59:52 GMT -5
O.K., I'll admit it, I'm an accuracy nut. What started out in rifles carried over to the crossbow. I know what it takes to be accurate with a rifle, from good consistent components to consistently holding the rifle the same way. What do ya'll consider to be good accuracy when shooting from a good rest, and at what distance? A great friend let me borrow his "extra" crossbow. It's supposed to be a lot quieter than my Barnett Revolution and it has a better trigger. More weight to pull, but no creep, not like the mile long creep my Barnett has. I thought it was about the same noise out of the box as my Barnett was with all the stuff I could do to it to quiet it down (even filling the stock with expandable foam). I first got it dialed in with the 100g field points. Then I wanted to put illuminated nocks on the arrows, and when I did that the groups at 50 yds opened up to about 4"-6". So, I switched to 125g field points and the groups shrank back to about 2 1/2" Supposedly it's going around 330 fps with the 100g broadhead. Still was a bit noisy (I thought) so I went and got a set of zebra string leeches and a set of Limbsaver dampers for the limbs. It's shooting a bit low with the different weight heads, so I just left it alone because I thought it'd slow down even more with the sound/vibration stuff. I was right, it was shooting low, so I adjusted the scope down to about 290 fps. Still not happy with the group size so I started weighing the components. It ended up that there is about a 3-5 grain difference in the arrows and practice heads. I found the difference was mostly with the points and not with the arrows (they were within 1 grain of each other.) So I shot one arrow, noted where it hit, brought it back, unscrewed the practice point and screwed that to another arrow and shot it. Doing it that way, all the arrows went into the same hole in the target, an inch or so in diameter at 50 yds and no wind. So now it's off to Lowe's to find some small washers that I can trim down to fit behind the heads so I can match weight the arrows. Did you spin-tune the heads to the arrows? 3-4 grains aren't going to make THAT big of a difference. It may be more likely that you were using the one head that was perfectly straight. One reason that I like Slick Trick broadheads so much is the tuning washers that came in the packages. They are ever so slightly out of flat level and allow you to rotate the washer to find where the broadhead point is exactly centered in the shaft. Every arrow that I spin-tune will match my field points out to my max practice range of 60 yards. |
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Post by jonsnowii on Sept 28, 2020 13:18:50 GMT -5
Did you spin-tune the heads to the arrows? 3-4 grains aren't going to make THAT big of a difference. It may be more likely that you were using the one head that was perfectly straight. One reason that I like Slick Trick broadheads so much is the tuning washers that came in the packages. They are ever so slightly out of flat level and allow you to rotate the washer to find where the broadhead point is exactly centered in the shaft. Every arrow that I spin-tune will match my field points out to my max practice range of 60 yards. You are just good! ...my hero. |
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Post by omegahunter on Sept 28, 2020 13:33:30 GMT -5
Did you spin-tune the heads to the arrows? 3-4 grains aren't going to make THAT big of a difference. It may be more likely that you were using the one head that was perfectly straight. One reason that I like Slick Trick broadheads so much is the tuning washers that came in the packages. They are ever so slightly out of flat level and allow you to rotate the washer to find where the broadhead point is exactly centered in the shaft. Every arrow that I spin-tune will match my field points out to my max practice range of 60 yards. You are just good! ...my hero. Aw, shucks!  |
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Post by esshup on Sept 28, 2020 15:20:21 GMT -5
O.K., I'll admit it, I'm an accuracy nut. What started out in rifles carried over to the crossbow. I know what it takes to be accurate with a rifle, from good consistent components to consistently holding the rifle the same way. What do ya'll consider to be good accuracy when shooting from a good rest, and at what distance? A great friend let me borrow his "extra" crossbow. It's supposed to be a lot quieter than my Barnett Revolution and it has a better trigger. More weight to pull, but no creep, not like the mile long creep my Barnett has. I thought it was about the same noise out of the box as my Barnett was with all the stuff I could do to it to quiet it down (even filling the stock with expandable foam). I first got it dialed in with the 100g field points. Then I wanted to put illuminated nocks on the arrows, and when I did that the groups at 50 yds opened up to about 4"-6". So, I switched to 125g field points and the groups shrank back to about 2 1/2" Supposedly it's going around 330 fps with the 100g broadhead. Still was a bit noisy (I thought) so I went and got a set of zebra string leeches and a set of Limbsaver dampers for the limbs. It's shooting a bit low with the different weight heads, so I just left it alone because I thought it'd slow down even more with the sound/vibration stuff. I was right, it was shooting low, so I adjusted the scope down to about 290 fps. Still not happy with the group size so I started weighing the components. It ended up that there is about a 3-5 grain difference in the arrows and practice heads. I found the difference was mostly with the points and not with the arrows (they were within 1 grain of each other.) Nope. Good advice!! I will check. I did send Rage a question about weighted washers to weight match the broadheads and got a response within 24 hours. So I shot one arrow, noted where it hit, brought it back, unscrewed the practice point and screwed that to another arrow and shot it. Doing it that way, all the arrows went into the same hole in the target, an inch or so in diameter at 50 yds and no wind. So now it's off to Lowe's to find some small washers that I can trim down to fit behind the heads so I can match weight the arrows. Did you spin-tune the heads to the arrows? 3-4 grains aren't going to make THAT big of a difference. It may be more likely that you were using the one head that was perfectly straight. One reason that I like Slick Trick broadheads so much is the tuning washers that came in the packages. They are ever so slightly out of flat level and allow you to rotate the washer to find where the broadhead point is exactly centered in the shaft. Every arrow that I spin-tune will match my field points out to my max practice range of 60 yards. |
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Post by omegahunter on Sept 29, 2020 10:39:51 GMT -5
I would just about guarantee that they don't machine and finish those practice heads to the same level of precision as they do the hunting heads. But I have seen several Rage broadheads that needed to be tuned as they were not in perfect alignment with the shaft.
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