|
|
Post by MuzzleLoader on Jul 23, 2020 18:45:25 GMT -5
Esshup
What’s a good chemical to spray for creeping primrose and filamentous algae that is safe for fish?
|
|
|
|
Post by whitetaildave24 on Jul 23, 2020 19:21:58 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Jul 24, 2020 1:27:41 GMT -5
Been a long day..... Safe for fish all depends on the applicator, as in if they follow the directions that are on the chemical bottle. Any chemical that I recommend is EPA rated for use in ponds. I had a client kill ALL his fish in the pond once. He wanted a chemical to kill algae, and enough to last the whole year. No problem! Well he called me a week later and said that he had a fish kill.  ? I went over and yup, he killed ALL the fish. Seems he didn't bother reading the instructions, he used ALL the chemicals that I gave him for the whole year in ONE treatment........... O.K., there is only ONE chemical that will work on both, but it will also kill any underwater plants in the pond and that is Diquat, either Reward or Tribune. Algae is best controlled with a copper based algaecide, and using a chelated copper is gentler on the pond than a non-chelated copper. The reason for the algae is an excess of nutrients, (i.e. not enough underwater plants to utilize the nutrients) and Mother Nature abhors a vacuum, so she will have something to grow there. Filamentous Algae (FA) will need a treatment about every 2 weeks to keep it under control, it grows back that fast. For FA, I typically use Cutrine Plus Liquid for water that is less than 24" deep or for floating mats and Cutrine Plus Granules for water that is deeper than 24". FA grows on the bottom of the pond, and then breaks free and floats to the surface once it is dense enough to trap the gas bubbles from decomposition on the bottom or O2 production from the algae.
To get rid of the floating mats, a strong stream of the water/algaecide mix is best to sort of "break up" the mats and get the algaecide to all the parts of the floating mats. Follow the label on the Cutrine Plus for application rates. If you have triploid carp, catfish or koi in the pond, go with the lightest application rate and no matter what type of fish in the pond, only treat up to half the pond at one time, treating the other half 3-5 days later, go with 5 days if you do not have an aeration system. If you kill too much of the algae at once the decomposing FA could cause an O2 crash, which will at the very least stress the fish, and at the worst cause a fish kill. We really like to have our customers stock Tilapia in their ponds to eat the algae, and when they are removed from the pond in the Fall, a lot of excess nutrients are removed from the pond at the same time. Plus they reproduce every month that the water temp is above the mid 70's and a LOT of the young Tilapia become food for the other fish in the pond. Those that escape predation become algae eating machines. FA will grow on the pond bottom up to 18" deeper than a secchi disk reading. For the Primrose you have a few options. Glyphosate (Excellent) - Rodeo, Aquamaster, Eraser AQ, Touchdown Pro, AquaNeat and ShoreKlear Plus Imazamox (Excellent) - Clearcast Imazapyr (Excellent) - Habitat Triclopyr (Excellent) - Renovate 2,4-D (Excellent) - Navigate or Weedar 64 You aren't supposed to use glyphosate that is rated for use on fields and NOT on ponds (or any other herbicide for that matter), not because of the active ingredient, but because of the inactive ingredient(s). They have not been tested on aquatic critters and some of the inactive ingredients have been found to be toxic to amphibians and invertebrates. For both the FA and the Water Primrose, it's best to mix a non-ionic surfacant into the tank mix to cut through any waxy coating on the plant to allow the plant to suck up the herbicide. I like to use Cygnet Plus at the rate of 1 fl. oz. per gallon of tank mix. We should have all of the above algaecides/herbicides/surfactant in our on-line store if you can't find them locally, as shipping adds to the cost. |
|
|
|
Post by MuzzleLoader on Jul 24, 2020 5:11:59 GMT -5
You are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you. I plan on treating very slowly and not to much at a time.
Thanks for a great response.
|
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Jul 24, 2020 22:07:01 GMT -5
Anytime Muzzleloader!
|
|
|
|
Post by treetop on Jul 26, 2020 14:58:11 GMT -5
Can you leave the tilapia in the pond or do they die off
|
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Jul 26, 2020 19:22:51 GMT -5
Can you leave the tilapia in the pond or do they die off Yes to both. LOL Natures scavengers remove them from the pond for ya. Turtles, coons, possums, etc. BUT if you can catch/snag them in late Sept/early October when the water temps are 60-65 degrees, they are no different than the Tilapia that you buy in the store to eat. They will not survive in water temps lower than 50 degrees for any length of time, some start croaking in the mid 50's, some will make it to 45°F. |
|
|
|
Post by MuzzleLoader on Aug 8, 2020 9:41:49 GMT -5
 What’s the weed coming up from bottom?? Got cutrine plus and diquat for spray. Essup |
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Aug 8, 2020 13:31:43 GMT -5
There's 2 coming up from the bottom. The one with leaves floating on the surface looks like American Pondweed. The other one? It's hard to tell without a close up picture of a single strand of it all by itself against a contrasting background, but it could be bushy pondweed or Niad. The light green mats of stuff floating in filamentous algae.
With your water clarity, if you kill the underwater weeds, the algae problem will get worse.
To treat, I'd use Cutrine Plus first, per the label, then the next day use the Diquat per the label. The American Pondweed is nice to have in the pond, the other one isn't bad, but it can get out of hand.
|
|
|
|
Post by MuzzleLoader on Aug 11, 2020 17:48:15 GMT -5
Esshup
Cutrine plus.
Using a 9 to 1 ratio in a gallon sprayer. 14 oz of cutrine to 1 gallon of water. Is this correct?
Doesn’t seem to be working.
|
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Aug 17, 2020 0:03:25 GMT -5
Esshup Cutrine plus. Using a 9 to 1 ratio in a gallon sprayer. 14 oz of cutrine to 1 gallon of water. Is this correct? Doesn’t seem to be working. Yep right ratio. Internet was down for 6 days starting 5pm Monday. If you are spraying floating algae, you need a strong stream to break up the mats as you spray. You must apply before around 4pm for it to work, before noon is much better. If you are spraying a pond, a gallon of tank mix won't do squat, you need a much larger volume of Cut+ to work. You have to get a .02ppm to 0.8 ppm concentration of the Cutrine plus (Cut+) in the water, which all depends on the volume of water you are dealing with. i.e. an acre foot of water (one acre, one foot deep) needs between .6 to 2.4 gallons of Cut+, which would be 6 to 24 gallons of tank mix...... So you'd be working overtime with that 1 gallon sprayer. What is the volume of water that you are treating? |
|
|
|
Post by MuzzleLoader on Aug 17, 2020 5:23:44 GMT -5
Esshup Cutrine plus. Using a 9 to 1 ratio in a gallon sprayer. 14 oz of cutrine to 1 gallon of water. Is this correct? Doesn’t seem to be working. Yep right ratio. Internet was down for 6 days starting 5pm Monday. If you are spraying floating algae, you need a strong stream to break up the mats as you spray. You must apply before around 4pm for it to work, before noon is much better. If you are spraying a pond, a gallon of tank mix won't do squat, you need a much larger volume of Cut+ to work. You have to get a .02ppm to 0.8 ppm concentration of the Cutrine plus (Cut+) in the water, which all depends on the volume of water you are dealing with. i.e. an acre foot of water (one acre, one foot deep) needs between .6 to 2.4 gallons of Cut+, which would be 6 to 24 gallons of tank mix...... So you'd be working overtime with that 1 gallon sprayer. What is the volume of water that you are treating? 3.5 acre lake but I was treating to make sure I had ratios right first and not kill everything in the pond. Lol. I have a bigger sprayer just taking it slow. Thanks for the ratios. |
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Aug 17, 2020 10:29:40 GMT -5
I'd think hard about alternating between using Cut+ and a product called SeClear by SePro. Does the same thing as Cut+ but also has a binder that helps strip P from the water. That way the algae doesn't get resistant to Cut+. Many people use Copper Sulfate to kill algae, but that is harsher on the pond and doesn't stay active in the water as long as the chelated copper products.
|
|
|
|
Post by MuzzleLoader on Aug 17, 2020 14:10:25 GMT -5
Thanks for all your suggestions. I’ve had a leak in my dam for years last summer I finally got it fixed. I think the major fluctuation water levels help keep the weeds down but this year it has remain steady and they had a chance to really grow.
Diquat really hits the creep p. But the cutrine has not hurt the f algae. I’m thinking with such a late start this year I’m fighting a endless battle. It just got to bad to fast before starting treatments.
Sept the geese are in for a wake up call. Need to get them outta here.
|
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Aug 17, 2020 15:00:34 GMT -5
Sept the geese are in for a wake up call. Need to get them outta here. People that allow geese on their ponds really don't know how much "hurt" they can do, besides bringing invasive weeds to their ponds. One goose in one day can poop enough in a pond to grow 115# of filamentous algae.......... Diquat does work fast!! Yes, you probably will be playing catch-up with the algae, and typically the species of algae that are growing in late summer are harder to kill. Basically figure on a different species or 2 of algae growing for every 10 degree difference in water temperature. They all have a relatively narrow temp band of water that they prefer to grow in. |
|
