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Post by welder on Jan 8, 2020 19:37:26 GMT -5
My wife bought me a Lee Loader for Christmas. I will be reloading .308 Winchester. I have zero reloading experience, but I am excited to try it out. Where do you guys buy your supplies? Any tips are appreciated. Thanks.
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Post by deadeer on Jan 8, 2020 22:09:20 GMT -5
You are diving into a very fun and rewarding hobby. A couple reloading manuals, patience, a clear head, and no distractions are your friend. A clean work area, and brass loading blocks keep everything tidy.
I started because factory loaded shells werent expanding in my Encore 30-06 pistol. A guy told me I needed a softer bullet and a little faster burning powder to go with a shorter barrel. I asked where I could buy those. He said, you cant. You have to roll your own!
So that started my almost 20 yr hobby. Unfortunately supplies have gone up in price, so the thought of reloading to save a bundle is past us now. You will just need time to acquire enough stuff to make it cost effective. Save and pick up range brass.
Lots of good videos on YouTube. Also the Lee reloading book is a great read. I suggest you start with one powder, one bullet, one primer, and one brand of brass. It would be smart to use brands that you can get locally.
If you can find someone locally to show you the ropes with hands on experience, that would be a real plus also. Good luck and be careful. Please report back with questions and results as you go.
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Post by parson on Jan 9, 2020 6:06:49 GMT -5
You are diving into a very fun and rewarding hobby. A couple reloading manuals, patience, a clear head, and no distractions are your friend. A clean work area, and brass loading blocks keep everything tidy. I started because factory loaded shells werent expanding in my Encore 30-06 pistol. A guy told me I needed a softer bullet and a little faster burning powder to go with a shorter barrel. I asked where I could buy those. He said, you cant. You have to roll your own! So that started my almost 20 yr hobby. Unfortunately supplies have gone up in price, so the thought of reloading to save a bundle is past us now. You will just need time to acquire enough stuff to make it cost effective. Save and pick up range brass. Lots of good videos on YouTube. Also the Lee reloading book is a great read. I suggest you start with one powder, one bullet, one primer, and one brand of brass. It would be smart to use brands that you can get locally. If you can find someone locally to show you the ropes with hands on experience, that would be a real plus also. Good luck and be careful. Please report back with questions and results as you go. Good advice. I second the idea of connecting with an experienced reloader, if possible. Don't know where you're located, but there is likely someone near you who would be glad to help out.
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Post by oldhoyt on Jan 9, 2020 8:57:07 GMT -5
Are you talking about the system that does not use a press? If so, you're a little limited with just that equipment. Not that you can't make good ammo.
With a 308, you'll need to trim cases to length at some point. Does the kit include a trimmer of some sort?
Also, the kit I'm thinking about has a volumetric measure for powder. You use a chart based on the powder used and you then select a certain cup which when full equals a certain number of grains. I've never used one, but it seems you don't have a lot of flexibility in making small adjustments. Scales can be had for a reasonable price.
I find a good caliper is an important reloading tool.
I agree with starting with one powder, primer and bullet. There are a few powders that are known to produce good results in .308. I'd then load 9 rounds around the low end of the charge range, and 9 rounds for every 0.5 grain increase until you get to the maximum recommended charge. Shoot three groups of 3 for each of your loads and see where your best accuracy is. With .308 it should be pretty easy to find a good hunting load, and I stop testing at that point. Of course, the variables are nearly endless and a man could spend years at it. I don't shoot much, so I'm happy with Loads around 1" groups at 100 yds.
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Post by BOBinIN on Jan 9, 2020 13:40:54 GMT -5
From my experience, don't waste your time and money on the powder "spoons or dippers". Reloading requires accuracy and a good beam scale is a worthy investment. The dippers are about as accurate as just pouring some powder in your hand and trying to get the same amount time after time. Good luck and you'll find it's a lot of fun to reload. BOB
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Post by jbird on Jan 9, 2020 17:24:28 GMT -5
My Boy started reloading within the past year or so.....308, .357 and now 5.56 and .45 ACP. I think he gets most of his stuff from Midway USA. The devil is in the details and data gathering. He also has a chronograph (I think that is what it's called) to measure bullet speeds and a lead sled to help brace for accuracy. I am not sure if his loads have matched or out performed factory ammo yet....but he seems to like it. The trick (from what I have seen) is finding out what your gun likes. Sometimes as little as a grain weight of charge or even bullet design can impact how it reacts in the gun.
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Post by esshup on Jan 10, 2020 0:58:36 GMT -5
Agreed with not getting the dippers. Not accurate enough for me anyway.
Reloading can be done to match factory ammo, be able to load something that isn't available from the factory, or load for maximum accuracy. It all depends on how far you want to take it.
A good press, a beam scale, good loading dies for the cartridge you are reloading for, something to put the primers in the cases, a set of calipers, a few paper reloading books, a chronograph (you really should know how fast the bullets are going), and a set of loading blocks. You'll also need shell holders for the press and maybe for the hand primer if you get one, a lube pad for the cases and case lube, (I just use Imperial sizing wax and no lube pad) and a way to clean the cases if you don't shoot a bolt action gun or single shot and let the cases hit the ground. For general accuracy you can just measure OAL of the cartridge. To fine tune the load you will need to measure case bast to ogive and measure the bolt face to lands/grooves in the gun. Those measurements will tell you how far the bullet moves before engaging the rifling and that can make a big difference in accuracy.
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Post by omegahunter on Jan 10, 2020 8:50:38 GMT -5
Agreed with not getting the dippers. Not accurate enough for me anyway. Reloading can be done to match factory ammo, be able to load something that isn't available from the factory, or load for maximum accuracy. It all depends on how far you want to take it. A good press, a beam scale, good loading dies for the cartridge you are reloading for, something to put the primers in the cases, a set of calipers, a few paper reloading books, a chronograph (you really should know how fast the bullets are going), and a set of loading blocks. You'll also need shell holders for the press and maybe for the hand primer if you get one, a lube pad for the cases and case lube, (I just use Imperial sizing wax and no lube pad) and a way to clean the cases if you don't shoot a bolt action gun or single shot and let the cases hit the ground. For general accuracy you can just measure OAL of the cartridge. To fine tune the load you will need to measure case bast to ogive and measure the bolt face to lands/grooves in the gun. Those measurements will tell you how far the bullet moves before engaging the rifling and that can make a big difference in accuracy. However, most of the time your ammo will be limited in length due to the use of the magazine if it is a repeater. But you can still play with the overall cartridge length to get it more accurate. Sounds like there are plenty of us on here that reload and would be more than willing to help you out if we knew where you were located. I get MOST of my reloading equipment and supplies from Cabela's just because we use a Cabela's credit card for every purchase that we can and then I redeem points for my supplies. Otherwise I check Graf's, MidwayUSA, MidSouth, Natchez, ...to compare prices/shipping before making an order.
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Post by jbird on Jan 10, 2020 10:55:05 GMT -5
My boy also mentioned Natchez and Brownell's as places for reloading supplies...
Some things I noticed when my son (who lives at home still) started reloading: #1 - you NEED a shooting range AWAY from the house (I thought my wife was going to beat him to death with his own gun) #2 - you may get boxes marked "EXPLOSIVE" delivered to your house...that gets a raised eye brow from the UPS guy. #3 - boxes marked "EXPLOSIVE" seem to freak out people when your giving them a gift. #4 - I fear if there is a fire at home....my house will simply explode, or be launched into orbit! #5 - simply assume you and your address will be added to some sort of "watch" list...so keep the tin foil hat handy!
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Post by omegahunter on Jan 10, 2020 11:04:12 GMT -5
#1- Best situation possible would be to live in the country so you could have your own range right out of the back door to test loads. The wife can flinch at the sink or on the couch. She will get to where she won't mind. #2- Unless getting a great deal, you can get most of your powder/primer needs at a local gun store or shooting range. #3- Sounds like you are getting the correct gift boxes to the correct people. #4- Smokeless powder does not explode, it burns. The reload room will burn VERY hot, but it will not explode. #5- You are already on a list somewhere just for being on this site.
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Post by esshup on Jan 10, 2020 15:42:16 GMT -5
If I can't find powder or primers locally (i.e. within 100 miles) I will order on-line but I'll order in a quantity that makes it cost effective due to the HazMat fees. Bullets are typically bought on the internet due to local pricing. Cabela's is just way too high for me for anything reloading related.
In no particular order:
Midway USA Graf & Sons Natchez shooting Supply Midsouth Shooting Supply Brownells Sinclair International Pats Reloading Powder Valley Bartlett Reloaders
It's OK to buy powder in 1 lb containers, but once you have a load developed and like the powder buy it in 8# jugs and depending on how much of it you will be using, buy 2 of them of the same lot number. That way you don't have to work up a load again because of a different lot number/
Get paper loading manuals. The info in the paper manuals will be here long after the mfg, changed their website.... First manual I'd buy is the Modern Reloading Handbook by Lee. It covers a lot of the basics, and the basics are VERY important.
I have a load data sheet that I made up and have a 1" thick 3 ring binder for each gun. I have the load data in the 3 ring binder and I can also print out targets on the computer and put those in the 3 ring binder too, with the load data and atmospheric conditions on them, If anybody wants a copy of the load data sheet LMK and I'll e-mail it to you. It's in word.
The key to good reloading is data. Have the data that you compiled available and keep good records. Consistency in reloading is critical, the more each round is an exact duplicate of the previous round, the more accurate the gun will shoot, providing the gun likes that load.
You can get real picky but for general hunting it isn't required. You can weight sort cases, measure bullet bearing surface length and sort in 0.001" batches, weight sort bullets, uniform metplats, minimize case/bullet runout, uniform primer pockets, anneal the case necks after every firing, etc., etc.
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Reloading?
Jan 10, 2020 16:49:11 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by hornzilla on Jan 10, 2020 16:49:11 GMT -5
I bought a package deal off of a guy from work several years ago. Press, dies, brass, primers, powder, bullets, ect. Started listening to a couple of guys I work with and there horrible stores. Needless to say my stuff has set for 20 years or so. Never loaded a single round. Would like to maybe if someone took me under there wing and showed me the proper way.
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Post by stevein on Jan 10, 2020 17:50:16 GMT -5
I use the dippers some of the time. Instead of setting up my charger for a short run I use the dipper that throws a light load then finish with my scale and trickler. Works for me. I have an old Redding charger that is kind of a pain to set up. Once set it is very accurate though.
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