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Post by Russ Koon on Oct 3, 2018 11:55:31 GMT -5
Still sighting in my WR Warrior and so far very pleased with it, except for one recurring glitch. It occasionally fails to put the pins that are supposed to hold the string at full draw into their position when I draw the string completely to full draw. After the first time, I have been very careful to make sure I've begun the draw with the safety in the "fire" position, drawn it completely to the stop and given it a slight extra tug, but the pins are usually there and sometimes missing.
I'm tempted to remove the trigger assembly and check it for any debris or burr or spider or whatever, and maybe smooth a suspicious sharp edge and give it a lube job, but I'm unfamiliar with the internals of the trigger boxes, and have so far not even found a good exploded parts diagram.
I've always been a tinkerer and amateur mechanic, so I'll probably try it anyway, but if there's something I should know regarding springs that will be suddenly released to disappear forever, or stuff that can only be re-assembled using a fixture that only the factory dealerships have, or some other hazard, please give me heads-up.
Thanks in advance for any tips.
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Post by oldhoyt on Oct 3, 2018 13:13:01 GMT -5
I'm no help here, other than to suggest you should check if tinkering with it could void the warranty (if still in effect and if you care about that). Just a thought.
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Post by Russ Koon on Oct 3, 2018 23:26:22 GMT -5
Good point, oldhoyt. I hadn't actually thought about it still being warranted. but when I found the purchase papers, the registration card was still with them, so I had forgotten to fill it out and send it in, and the warranty reverted to 180 days due to my negligence.
I took it out to the club again today and it now refuses to cock every time. Funny thing is, the action seems to work fine when it is laying in my lap and I'm sliding an allen wrench back the slot and manually cocking it. The "fangs" drop down all the way right on cue and don't seem to be impaired. Still can't see why they don't when it's the bowstring coming back the slot.
Can't be much wrong in there. I'm going to go ahead and see if I can dismantle it and find the problem.
Meanwhile, the practice with my Mathews is still progressing as long as I'm just at the practice range and not at a 3D. Confidence is coming back that I'll make the good shot when I need it again. I usually set up for about a fifteen yard shot from the stand, so I rarely need a lot of accuracy. Just get frustrated when I can't summon it on the 3d courses.
I'll probably not get a chance to be out there on the stand for a week or more anyway, so I should have the problem solved in time for some actual hunting.
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Post by Russ Koon on Oct 5, 2018 11:06:48 GMT -5
May have found the trouble. While looking for some sort of parts diagram or exploded view, I checked the TenPoint site and noticed the recommendation there for spraying some lube into the works if it started to fail to cock when it should.
I had checked for any resistance to the cocking motion best I could earlier, and it seemed free and unrestricted when I could get it to work, but wouldn't cock when the string was doing the cocking. Messing with it again during the Colts game, I realized that there might be just a little slowness there, sorta like the Colts offense. Not terrible but enough to be ineffective compared to what it should be.
Shot some WD-40 in there, and cocked it manually using a bent rod to do the string's job, and I could definitely feel and hear a difference. More like their offense in the second half as they were catching up to the evil Pats.
I'll be checking it out this afternoon and determining whether my trusty Thunderheads will fly from this contraption or if I need to buy some Spitfires.
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Post by Russ Koon on Oct 5, 2018 11:08:27 GMT -5
May have found the trouble. While looking for some sort of parts diagram or exploded view, I checked the TenPoint site and noticed the recommendation there for spraying some lube into the works if it started to fail to cock when it should.
I had checked for any resistance to the cocking motion best I could earlier, and it seemed free and unrestricted when I could get it to work, but wouldn't cock when the string was doing the cocking. Messing with it again during the Colts game, I realized that there might be just a little slowness there, sorta like the Colts offense. Not terrible but enough to be ineffective compared to what it should be.
Shot some WD-40 in there, and cocked it manually using a bent rod to do the string's job, and I could definitely feel and hear a difference. More like their offense in the second half as they were catching up to the evil Pats.
I'll be checking it out this afternoon and determining whether my trusty Thunderheads will fly from this contraption or if I need to buy some Spitfires.
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Post by Russ Koon on Oct 5, 2018 11:11:26 GMT -5
May have found the trouble. While looking for some sort of parts diagram or exploded view, I checked the TenPoint site and noticed the recommendation there for spraying some lube into the works if it started to fail to cock when it should.
I had checked for any resistance to the cocking motion best I could earlier, and it seemed free and unrestricted when I could get it to work, but wouldn't cock when the string was doing the cocking. Messing with it again during the Colts game, I realized that there might be just a little slowness there, sorta like the Colts offense. Not terrible but enough to be ineffective compared to what it should be.
Shot some WD-40 in there, and cocked it manually using a bent rod to do the string's job, and I could definitely feel and hear a difference. More like their offense in the second half as they were catching up to the evil Pats.
I'll be checking it out this afternoon and determining whether my trusty Thunderheads will fly from this contraption or if I need to buy some Spitfires.
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Post by Russ Koon on Oct 5, 2018 22:57:54 GMT -5
Well, that didn't turn out to be the answer. either.
It cocked every time I tried it manually, but when I got to the club and used the cocking rope, it wouldn't cock. Left me with the string hung up behind the dry fire prevention device again.
Finally, at home again and checking the net for more clues, I reviewed the company video on cocking and shooting the crossbow, and noticed the instruction to pull the string only until it has clicked the safety into the "safe" position.
Then I saw the part about what to do if the string was being held by the dry fire device. It said to grab the string and bring it back manually "until it clicks the safety into position".
I realized that I had been pulling it back each time until it was actually cocked, and then giving it an added "for good measure" tug to make sure it was cocked, and that extra effort was apparently what was somehow messing up the cocking job. The more I tried to "make sure" I had pulled it enough to get the job done, the more certainly I was going to get the opposite result.
So, it may all have been just operator error.
Who'd have thunk those instructions would be helpful?
it was
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Post by Russ Koon on Oct 8, 2018 13:28:14 GMT -5
OK, FINAL final report on this matter. Turns out it wasn't my extra measure of cockng effort that was causing the problem, either. When I got back to the practice range yesterday, and cocked it again with the rope cocker, being careful to stop pulling as soon as I heard the safety click to the "safe" position, the same result as before, the string was resting against the anti-dry-fire bars. Finished cocking it by re-setting the safety to "fire" and pulling the string by hand and could hear the faint click as the cocking was completed. I was still perplexed as to the cause of the cocking failures using the rope, but needed to finish sighting in so I continued the session, thinking if I cocked it carefully by hand each time to finish the operation, it would at least be usable.
But on the next shot, I was watching as I pulled the rope cocker again and just happened to notice the top edge of the rope cocker pulley on the right, and noticed that was riding along the upper right corner of the flight deck, and that the safety switch was sticking out apparently in it's path!
Sure enough, as the cocker came to the switch, it neatly moved it back to the "safe" position just in time for that to be important and cancel the cocking attempt.
The rope cocker wasn't included in the package with the WR when I bought it on clearance sale at WalMart, but a Barnett one was on the rack close by and was supposed to be pretty much universal, so I grabbed it up for $9. It had seemed to be doing the job just fine at first, but I may have been spreading my hands apart more as I finished pulling the cocker the last bit on my first few shots.
I was looking it over to figure out how to use it or modify it, when I noticed that the upper and lower "ears" of the cocker pulleys were different sizes. The upper one, if the hooks are on the string with open end facing upwards as directed, was the one doing the unintended movement of the safety switch. So since I could figure no real safety hazard involved in placing the hooks on the string with their open ends facing downward, I just switched sides with the handles to use the rope cocker "backwards" from it's intended orientation, and it worked fine.
The rest of the session went well, finished sighting in the thirty pin with FP's, and checked my BH impact with my trusty Thunderhead 125's and they were spot on at thirty also. Looks like hunting weather will be here in a few days, and I may have my stuff together about the same time.
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Post by whitetaildave24 on Oct 8, 2018 18:55:27 GMT -5
Just now reading this and I have the same rope cocker and use it with the openings facing down and it's worked just fine so far.
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Post by Woody Williams on Oct 8, 2018 19:22:40 GMT -5
AH, a Barnett accessory is the culprit.
Glad that you figured it out.
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