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Post by drfleck on Feb 10, 2018 23:18:41 GMT -5
Hello. Recently I've been hunting rabbits two or three times a week and I have a couple questions maybe you could help me with. I'm pretty much a rookie at this. First of all I'm hunting without dogs but with a partner. Area ranges from hardwoods bordering densely overgrown pasture to some of the thickest junk I've ever tried to walk through. Also an old gravel pit on the property and several piles of fencing and other miscellaneous junk. Typically rabbits are jumping up extremely close or as a result of us jumping on piles of brush. Currently I'm shooting an 870 with a 28 inch barrel and a modified choke which is the only choke I own other than turkey chokes. Shooting 4 shot. I've shot two rabbits at about ten to twelve yards and they weren't torn up bad at all but I've missed a few as well. I do have an improved cylinder barrel with rifle sights that's about 21 inches if I'm correct. I'm wondering if I should switch to this barrel because it would be a lot easier to maneuver and obviously lighter to carry for hours on end. Would I benefit from the more open choke as well? And if so should I maybe go to a 5 or 6 shot for increased number of shot? Seems that most shot opportunities involve shooting through a bit of brush. I appreciate any input that can help me in my quest to eat more of these tasty critters. Thanks
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Post by featherduster on Feb 11, 2018 6:45:46 GMT -5
Improved cylinder, 2 3/4" 6's.
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Post by coaldust on Feb 11, 2018 14:48:14 GMT -5
20 gauge with improved cylinder choke..6-7 1/2 shot.
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Post by drfleck on Feb 11, 2018 18:02:28 GMT -5
Generally do you want to use smaller shot with the more open choke?
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Post by span870 on Feb 11, 2018 18:57:56 GMT -5
Hello. Recently I've been hunting rabbits two or three times a week and I have a couple questions maybe you could help me with. I'm pretty much a rookie at this. First of all I'm hunting without dogs but with a partner. Area ranges from hardwoods bordering densely overgrown pasture to some of the thickest junk I've ever tried to walk through. Also an old gravel pit on the property and several piles of fencing and other miscellaneous junk. Typically rabbits are jumping up extremely close or as a result of us jumping on piles of brush. Currently I'm shooting an 870 with a 28 inch barrel and a modified choke which is the only choke I own other than turkey chokes. Shooting 4 shot. I've shot two rabbits at about ten to twelve yards and they weren't torn up bad at all but I've missed a few as well. I do have an improved cylinder barrel with rifle sights that's about 21 inches if I'm correct. I'm wondering if I should switch to this barrel because it would be a lot easier to maneuver and obviously lighter to carry for hours on end. Would I benefit from the more open choke as well? And if so should I maybe go to a 5 or 6 shot for increased number of shot? Seems that most shot opportunities involve shooting through a bit of brush. I appreciate any input that can help me in my quest to eat more of these tasty critters. Thanks 12 gauge I assume? Depends on how good a shot you are. All things considered a full choke would be great and take their heads off. Most end up shooting at the whole rabbit. For what you are doing I'd go with 5 shot. Reason being, a. it doesn't take a whole bunch to kill a rabbit, b. less bb's to pick out. As far as barrel, I'd go with the most open choke that you have. You aren't going to be shooting long distance and most are going to be quick jump shots where you're putting pellets where you hope the rabbit is going to be. You're going to miss a lot more than you hit doing this so don't beat yourself up. The cover will blow the pattern up real bad. Other suggestion. Get you some beagles or someone that has some to run them for you. Whole different ball game. |
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Post by drfleck on Feb 11, 2018 20:04:52 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies guys. I thought of a couple more questions...is high brass or low brass preferred and how much is a beagle?
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Post by span870 on Feb 11, 2018 21:05:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies guys. I thought of a couple more questions...is high brass or low brass preferred and how much is a beagle? Low brass will do. How much is a beagle? How much do you want to spend? Seen them go from $50 to guys handing a blank check and telling the owner to fill it out. I have some here that I'd pay you to take and a couple you couldn't buy from me. All depends on what you want. A good finished three year old dog you're going to spend anywhere from $500-$800. A great three year old is going to break $1000+. You get what you pay for. As far as a eight week old pup. Good breeding you are looking around $300. A warning. Unless it's something you're going to do all year long you're going to get the effort out of it what you put in. The more tracks you put under their nose the better they are going to be. Would not advise one for hunting if you're only going to run it two months out of the year. I try to put 50+ miles on mine every week and I'm at the low end of some of my buddies. You go out with guys that run dogs two months a year and very little in those two months then go out with guys that run all year long and live for the dogs, you'll see a huge difference. Before buying one, watch a bunch of different dogs run. A beagle just ain't a beagle. Huge difference in speed and style from dog to dog. If you ever want to run dogs, get ahold of me. I'd be more than happy to take you out and show you some different styles of dogs and answer any questions. We run them all year long. |
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Post by drfleck on Feb 11, 2018 21:41:56 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies guys. I thought of a couple more questions...is high brass or low brass preferred and how much is a beagle? Low brass will do. How much is a beagle? How much do you want to spend? Seen them go from $50 to guys handing a blank check and telling the owner to fill it out. I have some here that I'd pay you to take and a couple you couldn't buy from me. All depends on what you want. A good finished three year old dog you're going to spend anywhere from $500-$800. A great three year old is going to break $1000+. You get what you pay for. As far as a eight week old pup. Good breeding you are looking around $300. A warning. Unless it's something you're going to do all year long you're going to get the effort out of it what you put in. The more tracks you put under their nose the better they are going to be. Would not advise one for hunting if you're only going to run it two months out of the year. I try to put 50+ miles on mine every week and I'm at the low end of some of my buddies. You go out with guys that run dogs two months a year and very little in those two months then go out with guys that run all year long and live for the dogs, you'll see a huge difference. Before buying one, watch a bunch of different dogs run. A beagle just ain't a beagle. Huge difference in speed and style from dog to dog. If you ever want to run dogs, get ahold of me. I'd be more than happy to take you out and show you some different styles of dogs and answer any questions. We run them all year long. Thanks for the info! Sounds like a lot of work but also very fun and rewarding. Definitely something I'd consider once the child gets out on her own and I had the time to commit to proper training. |
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Post by drfleck on Feb 13, 2018 16:35:04 GMT -5
Went this morning. Jumped three. Killed one. Seem to see more as the day warms up. Is this common?
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Post by span870 on Feb 13, 2018 20:25:06 GMT -5
Yes. They'll get out in the sun to warm up. Cold days they'll burrow under grass clumps and you all but have to step on them to get them to move. They are there just know they are hidden. Where are you located at? If you're close enough you're more than welcome to come run dogs with me before the killing season is over.
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Post by drfleck on Feb 14, 2018 7:31:21 GMT -5
That's exactly what happened. First two were hidden in tall grass at the base of bushes and didn't move until I was a couple feet away. I'm located in Fort Wayne. I see you're in Lawrence County? I would like to take you up on that offer perhaps next season I could head your way.
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Post by span870 on Feb 14, 2018 11:01:09 GMT -5
Any time. If you're ever down this way, even after the season let me know. We run all year if you want to watch some run.
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Post by oldshotty on Feb 20, 2018 21:16:18 GMT -5
Use the 21" barrel and get some low brass #6 game loads. If I'm not bird hunting I always use short barrels. At about two ounces per inch your carrying almost a pound less of just barrel compared to the 28".
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Post by drfleck on Feb 20, 2018 22:01:52 GMT -5
Use the 21" barrel and get some low brass #6 game loads. If I'm not bird hunting I always use short barrels. At about two ounces per inch your carrying almost a pound less of just barrel compared to the 28". I had been using 4 shot but switched to 6 today. Shot one rabbit and they worked just fine. My buddy hunts with an old school Ithaca 37 and his gun makes mine feel like a boat anchor. |
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Post by oldshotty on Feb 23, 2018 22:40:56 GMT -5
Use the 21" barrel and get some low brass #6 game loads. If I'm not bird hunting I always use short barrels. At about two ounces per inch your carrying almost a pound less of just barrel compared to the 28". My buddy hunts with an old school Ithaca 37 and his gun makes mine feel like a boat anchor. That's funny I was out at Roush Lake today crow hunting with my 870 with a 21" barrel, I left my Ithaca at home it is to pretty to crash around in the brush with lol |
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Post by esshup on Feb 24, 2018 2:08:20 GMT -5
Use the 21" barrel and get some low brass #6 game loads. If I'm not bird hunting I always use short barrels. At about two ounces per inch your carrying almost a pound less of just barrel compared to the 28". I had been using 4 shot but switched to 6 today. Shot one rabbit and they worked just fine. My buddy hunts with an old school Ithaca 37 and his gun makes mine feel like a boat anchor. Ithicas are known to be light. Put the 21" barrel on it and see what it feels like. Shorter barrel will move the weight more to the rear, and a shorter barrel will allow you to swing faster. To really tell what size shot to use, pattern the gun at the distance you will be shooting the bunnies at. I agree with #5 shot, but I'd pattern with #6's too. Low brass is fine. No need to go 3". |
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Post by omegahunter on Feb 27, 2018 10:30:07 GMT -5
I use a 12 or 20 with modified choke and home-rolled shells with #5 shot. Most of the time the #5 is heavy enough to exit and not need picking out.
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Post by drfleck on Feb 27, 2018 16:16:08 GMT -5
Took the 870 out today with the 21 inch fixed improved cylinder barrel. Went 3 for 4. Yesterday went one for three with same setup. Today was my best day ever as previous best was two rabbits. Definitely digging the shorter barrel. Much lighter to carry and quick to point when they jump right out. I'm still getting more shot than I'd like in the meat using 6s and will pattern with 5s for next year.
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Post by firstwd on Mar 5, 2018 21:41:01 GMT -5
Are you aiming mid rabbit, rabbit head, or slightly ahead of the head? I always treated them like birds and clays. Swing to and just beyond the target while squeezing the trigger.
Find them me this summer to get out a bust some clays. The flyers will help with target acquisition and the ground hoppers will help with the unpredictability of rabbits.
We go out with at least 3 throwers, one mechanical and two hand, and the shooter doesn't call the pull. This is how we would warm up every year before dove and waterfowl seasons.
If you want to train yourself quickly, get a full choke single shot .410, 3" #5 shot, and concentrate on noses and eyeballs.
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Post by drfleck on Mar 6, 2018 10:50:10 GMT -5
Are you aiming mid rabbit, rabbit head, or slightly ahead of the head? I always treated them like birds and clays. Swing to and just beyond the target while squeezing the trigger. Find them me this summer to get out a bust some clays. The flyers will help with target acquisition and the ground hoppers will help with the unpredictability of rabbits. We go out with at least 3 throwers, one mechanical and two hand, and the shooter doesn't call the pull. This is how we would warm up every year before dove and waterfowl seasons. If you want to train yourself quickly, get a full choke single shot .410, 3" #5 shot, and concentrate on noses and eyeballs. Mostly just pointing the gun at the rabbit. Snap shooting if you will. Have only had a couple chances to aim when they have sat motionless and in those cases I tried to shoot just in front of the head. Switching to shorter barrel and more open choke helped a lot. |
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