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Post by ukwil on Aug 6, 2015 17:48:44 GMT -5
Woody I've seen the eagle seeds on Growing Deer TV. He really seems to like them due to the amount of production and how heavy they can be browsed.
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Post by jimstc on Aug 6, 2015 18:48:01 GMT -5
Nope, but that is some compelling information. Plan on calling them tomorrow to get some prices. RR seeds ain't cheap.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2015 20:05:12 GMT -5
I bought a bag of seed at Rural King the other day. It's that throw and grow no till mix with clover and some other stuff mixed in. I'm planning to take a rake and clean off a good stretch of my main road on top of the ridge in front of my best stand. It gets pretty good light. It will only be about 15 ft wide but I'll make it about 100 yards long with the stand at the "50 yard line". Anyone have any experience with that type of seed? Does that sound like it will work if I scratch the ground up pretty good?
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Post by Jamie Brooks 1John5:13 on Aug 6, 2015 20:40:38 GMT -5
I bought a bag of seed at Rural King the other day. It's that throw and grow no till mix with clover and some other stuff mixed in. I'm planning to take a rake and clean off a good stretch of my main road on top of the ridge in front of my best stand. It gets pretty good light. It will only be about 15 ft wide but I'll make it about 100 yards long with the stand at the "50 yard line". Anyone have any experience with that type of seed? Does that sound like it will work if I scratch the ground up pretty good? I also bought the same stuff from Rural King. I have a big bag of Whitetail Institute Oats Plus and other seed too. Food is plentiful around me with lots of corn and beans, so I wanted to plant something that they really liked. My biggest concern is that I'll not do a good job spreading the recommend coverage. It's a small bag to cover 1/2 acre. Working in the science field, I appreciated the research data form Whitetail. Found it much cheaper on Sportsmans Guide.
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Post by esshup on Aug 7, 2015 8:22:17 GMT -5
Woody, I've planted Eagle soybeans before and they have done well, a lot better than regular crop soybeans. But, you have to find a local dealer - as far as I know, they don't ship direct.
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Post by steiny on Aug 7, 2015 9:00:56 GMT -5
Eagle beans are highly regarded by the food plotters in QDMA, they say they get a little taller, have more browse, etc. We don't have the high deer numbers here, so over browsing isn't so much of a problem. I just buy the less expensive Roundup ready Ag beans and they do great.
Will caution you guys about the premixed "buck on the bag" stuff from Rural King, etc. Read the white stick-on label on the bag to see what you are truly getting. In many cases a bag that is proclaiming turnips, might only have 45% turnip seed with the rest being a bunch of filler stuff like rye grass, etc. Many also have a significant percentage of "inert matter". What they heck is inert matter .... saw dust? You're much better off to by straight seed in most cases. Just order it on line or have your local elevator or seed dealer get it for you.
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Post by trophyparadise on Aug 7, 2015 9:45:41 GMT -5
I would agree with some of steinys comments, but disagree with part of it. Personally I do not use eagle beans in my food plots. As steiny mentioned, unless your deer density is ridiculously high there is no measurable benefit to the higher cost of them compared to regular ag beans. I plant a late maturing(group 5) bean in my plots most of the time. If you can't get them in till late in the year, go with an early maturing bean( group 1-2)..yields will be less, but better than not having pod production in time for hunting season. As far as "buck on the bag" seeds.....yes there are a lot of them that use fillers, and yes a lot of it is the very same seed as what you can get from a co-op. However, not all of the food plot seed companies are that way. There are an elite few that really do a lot of research on their seed. There are plants that have been specifically developed for food plots that take into account palatability, attractiveness, yield, cold/drought tolerance, even the region of the country it is planted in. The worst thing you can think is that all seeds are the same. All clover seeds are not equal, neither are all turnips, oats, chicories, etc....different varieties have different traits. They may look very similar to us humans, but deer can tell a difference. Will deer eat any seed you put in the ground? Probably...but that doesn't mean they would prefer it if given a better option. Deer will eat fescue if nothing else is available. If no one else around you is planting food plots, you probably will have success using generic co-op seed. I hunt in an area where there are lots of guys managing the habitat. In order for me to be successful, my food has to be more attractive than the neighbors food. If my neighbor and I both plant brassica plots, I need to give the deer a reason to pick mine over his. I do that by using premium seeds specially selected (or developed) for deer. I have tested this on multiple occasions on my own land with side by side comparisons. I'm just pointing this out so as to encourage people to not write off "buck on the bag" seeds as a whole without doing some comparison Trophy Paradise Habitat Consulting "Trophies are built from the ground up" m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=852914431431752
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Post by steiny on Aug 7, 2015 10:03:49 GMT -5
No argument that some brands of seed are better than others. Also worth noting is something that came out of the deep south, northern US, or an arid region might not do so well in Indiana. Stuff developed a little closer to home typically has a better chance of growing well.
My biggest beef with the "buck on the bag" seeds is that in many cases half or more of the bag may be worthless filler or something you don't even want. Read the white seed tags guys.
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Post by trophyparadise on Aug 7, 2015 10:09:44 GMT -5
No argument that some brands of seed are better than others. Also worth noting is something that came out of the deep south, northern US, or an arid region might not do so well in Indiana. Stuff developed a little closer to home typically has a better chance of growing well. My biggest beef with the "buck on the bag" seeds is that in many cases half or more of the bag may be worthless filler or something you don't even want. Read the white seed tags guys. I would agree...where the seed was produced makes a difference. Whitetail institute for example, has regional blends. What you buy here will be different than what you would buy in the southeast. They have seed production facilities all over the country for that exact reason. Fillers are a big problem for me as well. What perturbs me even more is that in addition to using "inert matter" fillers, lots of companies use annual ryegrass as a large component of their blend. Ryegrass is nothing but a filler IMO. The advice to read the guaranteed analysis tag is spot on. Trophy Paradise Habitat Consulting "Trophies are built from the ground up" m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=852914431431752
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Post by steiny on Aug 7, 2015 10:57:51 GMT -5
I agree, Ryegrass is junk for plots and has almost zero wildlife value. It is more suited for something like erosion control where you just need something to grow fast to keep a slope from eroding. They put it in there I guess because it's just cheap, and thinking customers will think it's a cereal grain or something? Looks better on the tag than saying "worthless junk".
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Post by iceman10 on Aug 7, 2015 13:25:32 GMT -5
I planted RR Eagle beans a couple years ago in a 1 acre plot , the deer over browsed the plot so it never did reach full maturity. , spent a lot of $$ on seed & round up for a plot that farmers have planted all around me . I now buy seed to create my own blends for summer & fall annuals with a couple acres that stay clovers & chicory. As far as seed with Buck on the bag or any thing you plant for wildlife is not wasted efforts ! I still read & learn on wildlife plots & projects so I can improve my land . Good luck to all this season!
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Post by Jamie Brooks 1John5:13 on Aug 7, 2015 20:48:37 GMT -5
Yep, most of it is grass seed. It's in a pretty bag though.
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Post by MuzzleLoader on Aug 7, 2015 21:02:12 GMT -5
Getting out the kubota tomorrow and tilling the plots on my buddies new farm. Got some biggins on cams already.
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Post by Jamie Brooks 1John5:13 on Aug 7, 2015 21:22:51 GMT -5
Getting out the kubota tomorrow and tilling the plots on my buddies new farm. Got some biggins on cams already. Oh, that's exciting! I did kill the growth today. Too much sun for me; I had to take a nitro pill. I feel a lot better now. It's amazing how those pills work. I don't think I'm going to plant that cheap seed. I'll get something else to go with the Whitetail Oats Plus. Land owner said it's 1.5 ac; I just wanted 1/2. I guess my eyes were bigger than my belly, but hope it draws in a bunch of deer bellies. Farmer came to cut for hay, but land owner got tired of looking at it and bush hogged it. He let his frustrations out on me. LOL I'm so calm in my older years, but do not attempt confirmation from my daughter.
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Post by swetz on Aug 7, 2015 22:23:56 GMT -5
Yep, most of it is grass seed. It's in a pretty bag though. Yeah. Looked at what I got after reading the thread here and sure enough almost all ryegrass. I plan on stopping a couple places on the drive down to my place to see if I can get some clover or chickory seed to put down, but thought it over and will plant what I got even if not. I figure something is better than nothing and at the very least will be good planting practice. I'm on call every other weekend so my opportunities are limited and running out of time for this year. Live and learn I guess. Also, courtesy of the posters here (have I mentioned I really like this forum?), I've got some places I can get better seed for next year.
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Post by Jamie Brooks 1John5:13 on Aug 7, 2015 22:56:31 GMT -5
Yep, most of it is grass seed. It's in a pretty bag though. Yeah. Looked at what I got after reading the thread here and sure enough almost all ryegrass. I plan on stopping a couple places on the drive down to my place to see if I can get some clover or chickory seed to put down, but thought it over and will plant what I got even if not. I figure something is better than nothing and at the very least will be good planting practice. I'm on call every other weekend so my opportunities are limited and running out of time for this year. Live and learn I guess. Also, courtesy of the posters here (have I mentioned I really like this forum?), I've got some places I can get better seed for next year. I was a bit disappointed, but I think I'll use it down on the bottom land. No wonder it's grows easily with all the rye in it. You still have plenty of time if you wanted to get something else. I won't plant until the last week in August. I'm glad you like the site. A good bunch of guys we have here.
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Post by swetz on Aug 7, 2015 23:04:36 GMT -5
Yeah. I thought about holding off a bit until I get something better, but I figure give it a try. Work may get crazy here for me so end of the month could be too busy for putting a plot in.
I'm also still just learning so better to experiment with grass than the pricey stuff. Trying to take the long view. Even if it doesn't pan out this year, do better next year.
As far as the forum, everyone has been very nice and helpful. Almost can't believe it's the Internet.
Anyway, goodnight all. Gotta get some rest for tomorrow.
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Post by jimstc on Aug 8, 2015 9:13:29 GMT -5
The primary benefit of rye, in addition to fast growth and erosion control, is as a cover crop for ground that has compaction problems. The rye taproot can get as long as 40 inches. So, as mentioned above, if you are taking the long term view of your food plot project it does have benefits by improving your soil tilth. Be sure to kill it in the early spring.
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Post by Jamie Brooks 1John5:13 on Aug 8, 2015 13:26:12 GMT -5
The primary benefit of rye, in addition to fast growth and erosion control, is as a cover crop for ground that has compaction problems. The rye taproot can get as long as 40 inches. So, as mentioned above, if you are taking the long term view of your food plot project it does have benefits by improving your soil tilth. Be sure to kill it in the early spring. Do you see any problem with or recommend mixing the mostly rye seed with the other? I have a gentle slope, but no real erosion problems. I did kill a few moles and one snake, well the lawn mower did. I think one of the little cheap bags had like 60% and one had 80% rye. They are very small bags, but say they cover 1/4 acre. If seeding grass it might cover 30sq feet.
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Post by jimstc on Aug 8, 2015 13:58:12 GMT -5
The primary benefit of rye, in addition to fast growth and erosion control, is as a cover crop for ground that has compaction problems. The rye taproot can get as long as 40 inches. So, as mentioned above, if you are taking the long term view of your food plot project it does have benefits by improving your soil tilth. Be sure to kill it in the early spring. Do you see any problem with or recommend mixing the mostly rye seed with the other? I have a gentle slope, but no real erosion problems. I did kill a few moles and one snake, well the lawn mower did. I think one of the little cheap bags had like 60% and one had 80% rye. They are very small bags, but say they cover 1/4 acre. If seeding grass it might cover 30sq feet. Jon, since you have it, I would use it. Your ground is compacted, based on the fact the it has been hay ground and cut, tedderd and baled. Lots of equipment on that ground. I would get some pure seed to over seed it such as radishes, turnips, oats etc or whatever others may recommend. Heck, folks are still putting out soybeans.
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