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Post by span870 on Nov 30, 2018 18:00:55 GMT -5
07 Mitsubishi eclipse. Car cranks but won't turn over. But if you jump start the darn thing it runs just fine. That gets all fuel problems out of the way. I've had the battery tested twice and both times came back fine. Leads me to think starter but there isn't the typical whirring sound when you turn the key. At this point I have a gallon of high octane as the next resort unless any other ideas. Zero other symptoms of being timing issue. Literally the only symptoms are crank but won't turn over. What's confusing me is the jump start and run fine which leads me to battery.
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Post by nfalls116 on Nov 30, 2018 18:07:51 GMT -5
07 Mitsubishi eclipse. Car cranks but won't turn over. But if you jump start the darn thing it runs just fine. That gets all fuel problems out of the way. I've had the battery tested twice and both times came back fine. Leads me to think starter but there isn't the typical whirring sound when you turn the key. At this point I have a gallon of high octane as the next resort unless any other ideas. Zero other symptoms of being timing issue. Literally the only symptoms are crank but won't turn over. What's confusing me is the jump start and run fine which leads me to battery. Well I’m going with starter or battery cables/terminals. Take it to advance auto and they should be able to test the starting system on the vehicle? |
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Post by Sasquatch on Nov 30, 2018 19:07:02 GMT -5
07 Mitsubishi eclipse. Car cranks but won't turn over. But if you jump start the darn thing it runs just fine. That gets all fuel problems out of the way. I've had the battery tested twice and both times came back fine. Leads me to think starter but there isn't the typical whirring sound when you turn the key. At this point I have a gallon of high octane as the next resort unless any other ideas. Zero other symptoms of being timing issue. Literally the only symptoms are crank but won't turn over. What's confusing me is the jump start and run fine which leads me to battery. Well I’m going with starter or battery cables/terminals. Take it to advance auto and they should be able to test the starting system on the vehicle? Yeah, if there is someone who can test it give it a try. Hopefully it isn't some electrical gremiln. Those can be terrible. Good luck. |
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Post by bartiks on Nov 30, 2018 19:19:37 GMT -5
So if I'm understanding this right, the car will turn over but won't "fire" correct? If that is the case, next time you get in the car turn the key to the "on" position but don't turn the car over. Do that around 3 or 4 times and each time you do it listen to see if you can hear the fuel pump running. After you do that the 3rd or 4th time try to turn the car over and if it starts then you either have a fuel filter problem, fuel pump(that is if you can't hear it) or a possibility of "gunk" in the gas tank which is inhibiting fuel from getting to the motor. Hope that helps.
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Post by span870 on Nov 30, 2018 19:41:05 GMT -5
So if I'm understanding this right, the car will turn over but won't "fire" correct? If that is the case, next time you get in the car turn the key to the "on" position but don't turn the car over. Do that around 3 or 4 times and each time you do it listen to see if you can hear the fuel pump running. After you do that the 3rd or 4th time try to turn the car over and if it starts then you either have a fuel filter problem, fuel pump(that is if you can't hear it) or a possibility of "gunk" in the gas tank which is inhibiting fuel from getting to the motor. Hope that helps. In that case though it shouldn't run after getting a jump, correct? If you jump it, it runs fine. Just the initial start we are having problems with. |
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Post by bartiks on Nov 30, 2018 19:55:39 GMT -5
Depends on how long he has to turn the car over while getting jumped. If it is a situation where it takes 5 seconds or more it could be a fuel issue. Trying to rule that out a fuel issue is all. But by all rights it sounds like a fuel issue to me.
I'm sure that we all know this, but whenever you jump a car that has a full battery with a full battery the thing turns over like a stripped A$$ ape, and in my experience when I used to deal with cold diesel's and I don't proclaim to be a mechanic by any stretch. If you have an engine turning over faster more air, fuel gets thrown into the mix. |
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Post by duff on Nov 30, 2018 20:01:53 GMT -5
I can get you a discount on a chevy cruise.
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Post by bartiks on Nov 30, 2018 20:05:32 GMT -5
I'm actually looking for a new car.
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Post by scrub-buster on Nov 30, 2018 23:13:19 GMT -5
I don't trust the auto part stores advice on battery testing. They told me my car battery was shot. I cleaned the terminals and it lasted 2 more years.
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Post by deadeer on Nov 30, 2018 23:26:55 GMT -5
You will have to elaborate on "cranks but dont turn over". Do you mean the starter is cranking the engine over but it doesnt start? Then you said battery, starter, and jump start... it cranks with jump start, or it starts only when you jump it? I am not following the complaint exactly. If it cranks, but is only starting when jump started, how does your positive cable and connection look. Is it a couple cables, possibly one to the fuse box? Maybe the jumper cable is contacting the entire battery cable lug, but not making contact without it?
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Post by greyhair on Dec 1, 2018 1:08:13 GMT -5
Right on deaddeer, that is what I was going to say. Jumper cables are sending power somewhere that the battery is not, like the fuse box or a relay. I would try new battery terminals and cleaned up cable connections
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Post by stevein on Dec 1, 2018 11:44:46 GMT -5
My definition of "cranks" and "turns over" are the same. If the starter spins but the engine does not turn over or crank then there can be a couple of things wrong. The solenoid is not pushing the gear on the starter out far enough to engage the flywheel or the flywheel gear teeth are worn. The shaft on the starter motor could be worn, the solenoid not getting enough juice to push the gear out. Will it start when warm without a jump? Will it start if you just connect the jumpers and let them charge the battery?
I do not see a problem. Just get another battery and a set of jumpers and keep in the car.
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Post by esshup on Dec 1, 2018 12:29:42 GMT -5
I can honestly say I "knew" the battery was bad or I "knew" the alternator was bad, so I replaced one or the other and had the same problem crop up a week down the road.
Now even though I "know" the battery terminal connection is clean and I "know" the ground connection is clean I clean them anyway. Both with baking soda watery paste to neutralize any battery acid and with a battery terminal cleaning wire brush after the soda treatment and rinse, and a regular wire brush on the other end of the wire where it attaches to the car frame/motor or alternator (or use sandpaper on the terminal ground/alternator end). I also take a look (after having been bit by it once) at where the battery cables go INTO the battery terminal connector to make sure there isn't corrosion there either.
From 500 miles away it seems like the existing battery/battery cable connector isn't making a good connection, and the jumper cable/other vehicle battery is.
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Post by span870 on Dec 7, 2018 18:08:45 GMT -5
It was the starter. Replaced the battery just because. Anyway. What type of idiotic no brained engineer puts a starter behind the manifold on the front of the engine block that you basically have to rip everything out of the compartment to get to it. Oh and that last bolt that is between the exhaust and frame, genius.
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Post by whitetaildave24 on Dec 7, 2018 19:32:01 GMT -5
I’d say an engineer that works for a company that make things so difficult to work on that most average people won’t even attempt it and have to take it in to the dealer to get ripped off even more.
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Post by greghopper on Dec 7, 2018 20:04:56 GMT -5
I’d say an engineer that works for a company that make things so difficult to work on that most average people won’t even attempt it and have to take it in to the dealer to get ripped off even more. This.... plus it probably comes out easy when it's on the lift and you standing under it. |
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Post by esshup on Dec 8, 2018 5:32:35 GMT -5
It was the starter. Replaced the battery just because. Anyway. What type of idiotic no brained engineer puts a starter behind the manifold on the front of the engine block that you basically have to rip everything out of the compartment to get to it. Oh and that last bolt that is between the exhaust and frame, genius. An engineer that has no hands-on experience and just looks at the computer screen. He or she gives no thought to service or warranty work. I've worked with a few like that. |
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Post by span870 on Dec 9, 2018 7:28:32 GMT -5
IDK if this is true or not, maybe someone in the industry may be able to answer. Been complaining (whining) about this to my buddy. He has a brother that is an engineer for one of the big four. There is a constant argument between engineers on this. Seems each department gets so many square inches on a vehicle to utilize and that's what they get. Told me sometimes things just go where the square inches allow. Makes sense but seems it just created more work and parts. Put the starter there now you need a heat shield and than a heat shield for the heat shield.
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Post by firstwd on Dec 9, 2018 18:11:37 GMT -5
IDK if this is true or not, maybe someone in the industry may be able to answer. Been complaining (whining) about this to my buddy. He has a brother that is an engineer for one of the big four. There is a constant argument between engineers on this. Seems each department gets so many square inches on a vehicle to utilize and that's what they get. Told me sometimes things just go where the square inches allow. Makes sense but seems it just created more work and parts. Put the starter there now you need a heat shield and than a heat shield for the heat shield. This is basically how things work. It is the exact reason there is no set side of the vehicle the fuel fill hose is located. |
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