|
Post by robinsroost on Apr 17, 2018 13:44:34 GMT -5
Slow down and look more than you move. A rabbits eye will look shiny in the brush, I have killed them with a .22 that way. I always carry a .22 pistol when I am hunting, usually a Ruger Bearcat because it is light in weight, but I have carried a Rossi Gallery model .22 carbine, a slide action with a 16 1/2" barrel, ins1tead of a shotgun. Keep yer powder dry....robin
|
|
|
Post by bullseye69 on Apr 18, 2018 12:44:55 GMT -5
A rabbit will let you walk right on by them but Stop every 5 or 10 feet or so and they will get nervous and run giving themselves away.
|
|
|
Post by stevein on Apr 19, 2018 11:36:52 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies guys. I thought of a couple more questions...is high brass or low brass preferred and how much is a beagle? While an older dog seems expensive pups can end up costing just as much or more and still never be a rabbit dog. A running hound you can watch work will save you time and frustration especially if someone that knows dogs goes with you. And they will make up to you if you put in the time with them.
|
|
|
Post by moose1am on Apr 27, 2018 22:40:55 GMT -5
Hello. Recently I've been hunting rabbits two or three times a week and I have a couple questions maybe you could help me with. I'm pretty much a rookie at this. First of all I'm hunting without dogs but with a partner. Area ranges from hardwoods bordering densely overgrown pasture to some of the thickest junk I've ever tried to walk through. Also an old gravel pit on the property and several piles of fencing and other miscellaneous junk. Typically rabbits are jumping up extremely close or as a result of us jumping on piles of brush. Currently I'm shooting an 870 with a 28 inch barrel and a modified choke which is the only choke I own other than turkey chokes. Shooting 4 shot. I've shot two rabbits at about ten to twelve yards and they weren't torn up bad at all but I've missed a few as well. I do have an improved cylinder barrel with rifle sights that's about 21 inches if I'm correct. I'm wondering if I should switch to this barrel because it would be a lot easier to maneuver and obviously lighter to carry for hours on end. Would I benefit from the more open choke as well? And if so should I maybe go to a 5 or 6 shot for increased number of shot? Seems that most shot opportunities involve shooting through a bit of brush. I appreciate any input that can help me in my quest to eat more of these tasty critters. Thanks The Remington 870 12 gauge with a 28" barrel and modified choke is fine. I used number 5 or 6 shot and did well when rabbit hunting with a similar setup. I use #4 shot with the same shotgun while goose hunting. Make sure that you test to see which is your dominate eye and then shoot accordinaly or close the non dominate eye to score more hits.
|
|
|
Post by hugedogleg on Jun 18, 2018 14:10:13 GMT -5
Don't know anything about rabbit dogs but I run and raise hog dogs. To me hunting behind dogs is the most fun you can have without breaking the law. Ha. Training dogs is a challenge. The main thing I tell people who get pups from me is that it's a 50 50 proposition. No matter how well a dog is bred it will never reach its full potential without the owner putting in the time. The best dogs are usually the ones that spend the most time in the woods. Put young dogs behind veteran dogs when possible and set them up to succeed. I love watching young dogs develop. You get that same kind of pride you have when one of your children excels at something.
|
|
|
Post by mossberg500 on Jul 4, 2018 20:12:47 GMT -5
16 Gauge Improved Choke , shell would be 6 shot
|
|
|
Post by HillBillyJeff on Jul 7, 2018 15:32:37 GMT -5
I just hunt them with the rifle. Haven't had a rabbit dog in years. Miss having one though.
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Jul 21, 2018 7:36:40 GMT -5
The cheapest part about a dog is the purchase price, no matter what you pay for it. Training expenses, vet bills, food, etc., etc. will cost WWAAAYYYY more than the dog over the time you own it if you are a good dog owner.
|
|
|
Post by drfleck on Jul 22, 2018 0:13:32 GMT -5
The cheapest part about a dog is the purchase price, no matter what you pay for it. Training expenses, vet bills, food, etc., etc. will cost WWAAAYYYY more than the dog over the time you own it if you are a good dog owner. I know all about dog related expenses as it is. I own three wiener dogs and they are all well known at the vets office.
|
|
|
Post by esshup on Jul 24, 2018 0:04:23 GMT -5
The cheapest part about a dog is the purchase price, no matter what you pay for it. Training expenses, vet bills, food, etc., etc. will cost WWAAAYYYY more than the dog over the time you own it if you are a good dog owner. I know all about dog related expenses as it is. I own three wiener dogs and they are all well known at the vets office. My uncle had 2 of them. Both had back problems.
|
|