100-200 yd rifle ?

When I do find patches on the ground they are just about all the way burned up

Don't know where you're located, but perhaps spending some range time with experienced muzzleloader shooter might result in a good diagnosis.

I've been killing them for 40 years now with TC Hawken rifle in 45. The twist in it is intended for the TC maxi ball and after trying round balls and the very early sabots from it, neither of those were even close on accuracy from my rifle. I just settled in with the maxi ball and shot it and REAL bullets ever since. They both shoot great for me. I shoot about 100 grains of FFF. That's good well past 100 yards.

To get the rifle zeroed in good from scratch, iron sights, I'll start at 25 yards with a fresh clean barrel. Presuming the first shot knocks out the bull or is with in an inch, I'll make the corrections for left or right. Remember a 1/4 inch per click means 4 clicks per inch at 25. Then I'll move to 50 yards for the 2nd shot, just reload. I don't clean a barrel EVERY shot. If this one is with in 2 inches in any direction from the bull I'll adjust to put it on the bull or 1 inch high.

ALWAYS SHOT FOR SIGHT ADJUSTMENTS FROM A STEADY REST OR SAND BAGS. You are pretty much wasting your time off handing it unless your biggest shooting skill is luck.

I'll take a second confirming shot after adjustment to prove the correction at 50 yards. That second shot here, 3rd over all should be with in an inch of the bull easy this time at 50. If it's NOT, you are probably looking at inconsistent ignition. Double check list, 1 good new, fresh, hot caps. 2. Good dry powder, no clumps. 3. Correct powder FF or, I prefer, FFF. I seem to get more consistent results with FFF. I probably wouldn't use it with bigger cal than the 45 though. 4 consistent bullets, consistent lube, fully seated. Should mark the rod on a clean barrel seating with your favorite charge so you know every time you seat a bullet it's full down and the charge is the same. Pay attention when you are running the ball/bullet down does it feel the same it always does? There can be differences.

If you are suspicious of any of these potential problems on the last shot then shoot one more with out moving the sights.

If the 4 the shot is off the mark more than an inch at 50 and especially if it's in a different direction than the last one, the clean the barrel. AT LEAST a quick "range clean". Run brush up and down until dirt stops falling out. Wet a patch and run it up and down. Dry it out with a couple dry patches until they come out dry. They won't come out clean but at least dry. Pop a couple caps on an empty barrel. Pop a cap toward the ground enough to see it move the dust, grass or debri on the ground move from just the cap.

Now load up same as the previous 4 shots and take one at 50 yards. It should be near right on the bull. If so, move on to 75. The goal here is to be dead on the money, no KY windage or elevation, dead on the mark at 75. With iron sights, you smash a deer's heart size target any where from 0 - 100 or 125 yards with out any adjustments of any kind. Just aim for it. If IF there is some unexpected surprise from a live, wild, animal you will still be in the heart lung kill zone. The lungs are your back up. Don't count on that pie plate crap and "minute of deer" bull from the peanut gallery.

The heart, as far as you can hit a soft ball, every single shot on the range, That's your range on a live animal in the field. Don't matter if it's a 30-30, 300 win mag, muzzle loader or bow and arrow.

Unless you enjoy spending your hunting days chasing around wounded ones and eating hormone and adrenaline filled meat that taste like old moccasin. Pulling the trigger and stopping the pump is the first, most important thing you can do in every aspect of deer hunting from hunting to putting it on the plate.

I would like to do that but don't really have or know anyone very experienced with them.

When shooting conical rounds such as great plains do you use a sabot with it or a patch ?

I'm aware of how to load patch and ball wasn't sure about conical. They are pre lubed so should be Simple enough thank you for the info

I found a formula for finding the ideal load by multiplying the coefficient of the caliber by barrel length. Mine comes out to be rounded up is 74 gr.

I was looking for a post to give me an idea what gun you are shooting and this is the best I see.

Probably a side lock percussion cap?

If it is a modern type gun with inline ignition I might jump to the conclusion it is rifled for sabots. If it is a replica gun with percussion caps I'm pretty sure it's rifled for round balls, 1/60, or maxi balls 1/28.

It's a rare gun that shoots something it's not designed for BETTER than what it IS designed for.

What's most important is what YOUR gun is designed to shoot best. It hardly matters at all what I own or shoot. Or any one else pretty much.

I was shooting it until I just broke the end off the ram rod because it got stuck. It's out now but I'm highly upset.