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Post by wesb81219 on May 20, 2016 22:01:26 GMT -5
I've got all the Same patches and do everything exactly the same every time. I did just shine a light down the barrel and it looks like there may be some pitting. So I don't know if it's even worth trying another round for it or just giving up on it
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Post by trapperdave on May 20, 2016 22:38:51 GMT -5
The round balls I've been shooting are all over the place no consistency what so ever Vary powder charge, patch thickness, and lubes What does your spent patches look like? Whole, burnt up or full of holes? Lots of variables in working up accurate loads
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Post by wesb81219 on May 21, 2016 7:25:25 GMT -5
When I do find patches on the ground they are just about all the way burned up
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Post by trapperdave on May 21, 2016 7:48:50 GMT -5
How tight is ball and patch when loading? Are they lubed? What size ball and patch thickness? Pic of fired patch?
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Post by parson on May 21, 2016 9:31:15 GMT -5
Don't know where you're located, but perhaps spending some range time with experienced muzzleloader shooter might result in a good diagnosis.
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Post by nfalls116 on May 21, 2016 9:47:32 GMT -5
Don't know where you're located, but perhaps spending some range time with experienced muzzleloader shooter might result in a good diagnosis. this makes sense
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Post by jackryan on May 21, 2016 11:00:56 GMT -5
I'm gonna get the. 30-.30 but I would still like to be able to use the muzzy as well I've been killing them for 40 years now with TC Hawken rifle in 45. The twist in it is intended for the TC maxi ball and after trying round balls and the very early sabots from it, neither of those were even close on accuracy from my rifle. I just settled in with the maxi ball and shot it and REAL bullets ever since. They both shoot great for me. I shoot about 100 grains of FFF. That's good well past 100 yards. To get the rifle zeroed in good from scratch, iron sights, I'll start at 25 yards with a fresh clean barrel. Presuming the first shot knocks out the bull or is with in an inch, I'll make the corrections for left or right. Remember a 1/4 inch per click means 4 clicks per inch at 25. Then I'll move to 50 yards for the 2nd shot, just reload. I don't clean a barrel EVERY shot. If this one is with in 2 inches in any direction from the bull I'll adjust to put it on the bull or 1 inch high. ALWAYS SHOT FOR SIGHT ADJUSTMENTS FROM A STEADY REST OR SAND BAGS. You are pretty much wasting your time off handing it unless your biggest shooting skill is luck. I'll take a second confirming shot after adjustment to prove the correction at 50 yards. That second shot here, 3rd over all should be with in an inch of the bull easy this time at 50. If it's NOT, you are probably looking at inconsistent ignition. Double check list, 1 good new, fresh, hot caps. 2. Good dry powder, no clumps. 3. Correct powder FF or, I prefer, FFF. I seem to get more consistent results with FFF. I probably wouldn't use it with bigger cal than the 45 though. 4 consistent bullets, consistent lube, fully seated. Should mark the rod on a clean barrel seating with your favorite charge so you know every time you seat a bullet it's full down and the charge is the same. Pay attention when you are running the ball/bullet down does it feel the same it always does? There can be differences. If you are suspicious of any of these potential problems on the last shot then shoot one more with out moving the sights. If the 4 the shot is off the mark more than an inch at 50 and especially if it's in a different direction than the last one, the clean the barrel. AT LEAST a quick "range clean". Run brush up and down until dirt stops falling out. Wet a patch and run it up and down. Dry it out with a couple dry patches until they come out dry. They won't come out clean but at least dry. Pop a couple caps on an empty barrel. Pop a cap toward the ground enough to see it move the dust, grass or debri on the ground move from just the cap. Now load up same as the previous 4 shots and take one at 50 yards. It should be near right on the bull. If so, move on to 75. The goal here is to be dead on the money, no KY windage or elevation, dead on the mark at 75. With iron sights, you smash a deer's heart size target any where from 0 - 100 or 125 yards with out any adjustments of any kind. Just aim for it. If IF there is some unexpected surprise from a live, wild, animal you will still be in the heart lung kill zone. The lungs are your back up. Don't count on that pie plate crap and "minute of deer" bull from the peanut gallery. The heart, as far as you can hit a soft ball, every single shot on the range, That's your range on a live animal in the field. Don't matter if it's a 30-30, 300 win mag, muzzle loader or bow and arrow. Unless you enjoy spending your hunting days chasing around wounded ones and eating hormone and adrenaline filled meat that taste like old moccasin. Pulling the trigger and stopping the pump is the first, most important thing you can do in every aspect of deer hunting from hunting to putting it on the plate.
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Post by Jamie Brooks 1John5:13 on May 21, 2016 13:38:25 GMT -5
I wanted to get mine sighted at 50 yds that's all the range I have at home. but then take it to the range to try 100 yds. If I can't get it at 50 there's no point in attempting 100 LOL, this is a really good point. I have shot my .45 Hawken 5 times without cleaning in anyway, but it did great at 50yds after I adjusted my powder. For this gun, I do use the conical lead rounds. I shoot 75gr, but started with 100 and this was not a good match. You'll get it figured out. Is the barrel pitted?
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Post by wesb81219 on May 21, 2016 16:38:26 GMT -5
Don't know where you're located, but perhaps spending some range time with experienced muzzleloader shooter might result in a good diagnosis. I would like to do that but don't really have or know anyone very experienced with them.
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Post by wesb81219 on May 21, 2016 16:41:07 GMT -5
How tight is ball and patch when loading? Are they lubed? What size ball and patch thickness? Pic of fired patch? It's a pretty tight fit. Patches are pre lubed but maybe some bore butter would help. the balls are. 54 cal not sure about the patches they were given to me with the muzzy.
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Post by wesb81219 on May 21, 2016 18:36:43 GMT -5
When shooting conical rounds such as great plains do you use a sabot with it or a patch ?
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Post by jackryan on May 21, 2016 18:55:01 GMT -5
When shooting conical rounds such as great plains do you use a sabot with it or a patch ? You use a patch with a round ball. When you seat a round ball there should be equal resistance after the first inch, all the way to seating it. If it feels tight in a spot, there corrosion, dirt or pitting. If it feels loose in a spot there is or has been excessive corrosion. You'll never get top accuracy from it. Conical/ lead BULLETS do not need patches or sabot unless they are under size to the bore. They need lube. Bore butter, crisco, lot of things like that are good. Fill the lube rings and shoot. Most of the time sabots are used with copper jacketed modern bullets that are undersize to the bore.
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Post by wesb81219 on May 21, 2016 19:55:32 GMT -5
I'm aware of how to load patch and ball wasn't sure about conical. They are pre lubed so should be Simple enough thank you for the info
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Post by drs on May 22, 2016 4:46:14 GMT -5
I'm aware of how to load patch and ball wasn't sure about conical. They are pre lubed so should be Simple enough thank you for the info If I were you, I'd forget using: Patched round lead balls, cast lead bullets like "Maxi-balls", Black powder or pyrodex and such. I would strictly go to using sabots and modern pistol bullets of proper caliber (.45 or .44 calibers in a .50 caliber M/L.) Also, I'd use one of the more modern type M/L powders like Triple 777 (FFG). I once had a T/C New Englander in .50 caliber that had a 1-48" rate-of-twist and the sabots proved to be more accurate and consistent. I now have a scope sighted inline M/L and only use sabots & .45 (.451" or .452") Hornady XTP 250 grain bullets, along with 90.0 (Volume) of Triple 7 FFG loose powder. Accuracy is outstanding and will take a Deer @ 100 yards.
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Post by wesb81219 on May 22, 2016 18:16:49 GMT -5
I found a formula for finding the ideal load by multiplying the coefficient of the caliber by barrel length. Mine comes out to be rounded up is 74 gr.
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Post by trapperdave on May 22, 2016 19:32:38 GMT -5
I'm aware of how to load patch and ball wasn't sure about conical. They are pre lubed so should be Simple enough thank you for the info If I were you, I'd forgoet using: Patched round lead balls, cast lead bullets like "Maxi-balls", Black powder or pyrodex and such. I would strictly go to using sabots and modern pistol bullets of proper caliber (.45 or .44 calibers in a .50 caliber M/L.) Also, I'd use one of the more modern type M/L powders like Triple 777 (FFG). I once had a T/C New Englander in .50 caliber that had a 1-48" rate-of-twist and the sabots proved to be more accurate and consistent. I now have a scope sighted inline M/L and only use sabots & .45 (.451" or .452") Hornady XTP 250 grain bullets, along with 90.0 (Volume) of Triple 7 FFG loose powder. Accuracy is outstanding and will take a Deer @ 100 yards. Ick...in lines, sabots and fake powder. Such language. :/
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Post by jackryan on May 22, 2016 20:05:59 GMT -5
Used , it was my bosses neighbors. Said the guy had it for as long as he's known him which is 30 yrs. I was looking for a post to give me an idea what gun you are shooting and this is the best I see. Probably a side lock percussion cap? If it is a modern type gun with inline ignition I might jump to the conclusion it is rifled for sabots. If it is a replica gun with percussion caps I'm pretty sure it's rifled for round balls, 1/60, or maxi balls 1/28. It's a rare gun that shoots something it's not designed for BETTER than what it IS designed for. What's most important is what YOUR gun is designed to shoot best. It hardly matters at all what I own or shoot. Or any one else pretty much.
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Post by wesb81219 on May 22, 2016 20:36:16 GMT -5
Used , it was my bosses neighbors. Said the guy had it for as long as he's known him which is 30 yrs. I was looking for a post to give me an idea what gun you are shooting and this is the best I see. Probably a side lock percussion cap? If it is a modern type gun with inline ignition I might jump to the conclusion it is rifled for sabots. If it is a replica gun with percussion caps I'm pretty sure it's rifled for round balls, 1/60, or maxi balls 1/28. It's a rare gun that shoots something it's not designed for BETTER than what it IS designed for. What's most important is what YOUR gun is designed to shoot best. It hardly matters at all what I own or shoot. Or any one else pretty much.
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Post by wesb81219 on May 22, 2016 20:39:48 GMT -5
I was shooting it until I just broke the end off the ram rod because it got stuck. It's out now but I'm highly upset.
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Post by nfalls116 on May 22, 2016 20:42:11 GMT -5
I was shooting it until I just broke the end off the ram rod because it got stuck. It's out now but I'm highly upset. they make em everyday (this is why you get a nice fancy range rod)
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