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Post by wesb81219 on Apr 15, 2016 15:58:06 GMT -5
I have been told you should not have to prime the nipple for 54 cal hawken to fire, but I must in order for it to fire. was what I was told wrong or is something wrong. I use pyrodex and percussion caps. any help is appreciated
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Post by parson on Apr 15, 2016 16:08:28 GMT -5
I have never primed the nipple on a caplock muzzleloader. Unless there is blockage in the nipple, the cap should ignite the charge. Also, you can get a 209 primer conversion for that Hawken which might eliminate failure to fire. Here is a link to one. I'm sure that others are available. www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/mag-spark.html
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Post by onebentarrow on Apr 15, 2016 16:42:06 GMT -5
I have been told you should not have to prime the nipple for 54 cal hawken to fire, but I must in order for it to fire. was what I was told wrong or is something wrong. I use pyrodex and percussion caps. any help is appreciated You should not have to prime to get it to fire. I (personally) would get rid of the pirodex. It seamed to me to be a lot more corse and hard to ignite. I could not get it to fire regularly in my 54 either. I used 2ff or 3ff black powder. NOTE,pirodex is more corosive than black powder but it has less residue after a shot. The flash channel could be caroaded or rusty also. On the tc's there was a little screw on the side that could be removed to get into the channel to make sure it was clean. If you just want some shooting time, pm me and I will tell you how to shoot patched round balls all day with out haveing to swab your gun till you are dune. Then of course take home and clean. With any muzzeloader the cleaning is of most importance. If you let them sit dirty a day they will start to rust. Also get a nipple with as big a hole in it as possible. This allows more fire to the powder. When you load your gun, dump in powder then tip gun on side and tap with your hand to (help) the powder flow into the flash chanel. When I hunted with my 54 I would load it then take nipple off and fill flash channel with 4 ffff powder as insurance. Never had one not go off that did not get wet from rain or snow. (My falt)
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Post by wesb81219 on Apr 15, 2016 17:47:00 GMT -5
Well I guess that's what you could say I'm doing is filling the flash channel. I didn't know that's what it is called. A wrong assumption by me. it fires every time I fill the flash channel so perhaps I am doing it correctly. I will more than likely get the mag spark 209 primer conversion eventually. if I can stop buying everything else for I want for hunting. heck I have a hard time keeping ammo because I have a shooting range set up in my back yard.
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Post by parson on Apr 15, 2016 19:43:23 GMT -5
I like my sidelock percussion cap rifles, but I usually shoot an inline anymore. If I had a range out back I would be burning a lot of ammo too!!
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Post by onebentarrow on Apr 15, 2016 22:52:33 GMT -5
Well I guess that's what you could say I'm doing is filling the flash channel. I didn't know that's what it is called. A wrong assumption by me. it fires every time I fill the flash channel so perhaps I am doing it correctly. I will more than likely get the mag spark 209 primer conversion eventually. if I can stop buying everything else for I want for hunting. heck I have a hard time keeping ammo because I have a shooting range set up in my back yard. If you are p ulling your nipple every time and filling the flash channel some thing is not right. That gun SHOULD fire every time with out doing that. I just filled the channel as insurance WHEN I hunted. You should be able to just load the powder and bbullet put a cap on the nipple and fire. Do you have a nipple pick? The hole in the bottom may be almost clogged and not letting enough flame thru to light powder with out the extra you Been putting in.
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Post by wesb81219 on Apr 16, 2016 7:57:13 GMT -5
Yes that's what I have to do every time and yes I have a nipple pick. I make sure everything is clear before loading so I don't know what's going on
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Post by throbak on Apr 16, 2016 8:44:20 GMT -5
shot one for years pyrodex is the problem ,,, fff black powder never a problem might think about dumping the pyrodex
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Post by stevein on Apr 16, 2016 9:11:39 GMT -5
What Onebent said about real black powder I agree with. TC's and most modern production ML's have some version of a patent breech. These have a powder chamber SMALLER than the bore of the rifle. You can't reach this with a bore size jag when you clean. Black powder can make a cinder like residue that will eventually plug up the works. If will hold oil and contaminate the powder too. So your bore is .540", the chamber is probably .312" to .375" x 1" or so deep, the hole from under the nipple to the chamber is probably .159" (tap drill for 10-32). I do not remember seeing a clean out screw on a TC that could be removed, most are frozen/rusted in place. So right now you are thinking I am screwed, right? No grasshopper there is a brush that will get to that unreachable area and remove all that accumulated crud. Sold by most of the big time ML suppliers like Track of the Wolf, Log Cabin etc... While you are getting the brush get a good stainless rod, bore guide, jags to fit and the all important patch retriever ( looks like a corkscrew and in a pinch can be used for one ) Save your money on bore cleaners and the latest greatest commercial bore cleaners and OTDML (Older Than Dirt Muzzle Loaders) concoctions and use my secret formula. Get a sturdy pan or bucket and put in about 2 or 3 inches of plain old tap water, it does not have to be hot either. Remove the nipple and put the barrel breech down in the water. Using you ramrod pump some water up and down a few times and remove the RR. Let it sit for a while and soak. Put the brush on the RR and run it down into the breech. Twist it with mild downward pressure. Put the Jag back on and pump it again. Repeat as necessary until there is no more crap in the breech. Get some pipe cleaners and run in through the nipple to the breech until they come out clean. Dry the bore and oil inside and out, I use WD40 and spray it down the bore. Let stand muzzle down in a safe place for a day or so and reassemble. Link to patent breeches... www.google.com/search?q=patent+breech&espv=2&tbm=isch&imgil=OAZ6zXaoifm8mM%253A%253BREtVo_EhHVX8nM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Ftraditionalmuzzleloadingassociation.org%25252Fforum%25252Fviewtopic.php%25253Ff%2525253D8%25252526t%2525253D20630&source=iu&pf=m&fir=OAZ6zXaoifm8mM%253A%252CREtVo_EhHVX8nM%252C_&usg=__Fj-9GgLtZypjxLnA6Pa-slC2MxM%3D&biw=1920&bih=955&ved=0ahUKEwjrqNnroJPMAhUD4CYKHVZdB1cQyjcIQg&ei=JD0SV-uGH4PAmwHWup24BQ#imgrc=OAZ6zXaoifm8mM%3A
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Post by stevein on Apr 16, 2016 9:27:38 GMT -5
OK Wes now that you have your rifle clean here is how to load it. For hunting I flush it with Brake Cleaner to remove all traces of oil. Careful here or you will stick your patch in the bore. Pop one cap at a leaf or blade of grass and see if it moves. If not you have a blockage somewhere that needs cleared. Load powder THEN ball or bullet and you are ready to go. At the range pop a cap or 3 as above but you don't need to use the brake cleaner. Set your hammer at half cock and remove spent cap. Do this EVERY time you load. Having it a half cock will allow any air to escape and usually puts powder right under the nipple. If you are cleaning between shots don't go overboard with your clean solution. A little goes a long way. Good luck with your rifle.
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Post by wesb81219 on Apr 16, 2016 16:13:38 GMT -5
I was told that this muzzle loader is around 30 yrs old don't know how true that is but perhaps blockage is my problem thank you guys a bunch for the tips it may be a bit before I get the chance to thoroughly clean this think but as soon as I do I will update you fellas on how it goes thanks again
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Post by parson on Apr 16, 2016 17:48:35 GMT -5
I've shot Pyrodex for 25+ years, and never had problems with it- always the the granular, never have used the pellets. I follow pretty much the same cleaning procedure as stevein. I put a few inches of hot water in a 5 gal. bucket and use a tight patch to create a pumping action. I do add a little dish soap; then rinse with hot water.
I run a patch with bore butter through after it's dry.
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Post by wesb81219 on Apr 16, 2016 17:58:22 GMT -5
I'm sure I need to give it a thorough cleaning. I suppose if it keeps giving me problems after I clean it I'll sell it and use the money towards something else. As a side not I only paid $100 for it so I know I can get that and maybe a little more out of it.
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Post by omegahunter on Apr 19, 2016 12:24:12 GMT -5
T/C made a brass fouling scraper that would attach to the end of the ramrod to cut through the fouling and scrape it out of the breech end of the barrel. Always used it and never had a misfire or hangfire.
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Post by trapperdave on Apr 21, 2016 19:53:35 GMT -5
First step, get a new nipple. 2nd, get real black powder Make sure all oil residue is gone before loading. Fowled damp powder is usually the culprit if you have a good nipple
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Post by trapperdave on Apr 21, 2016 19:55:10 GMT -5
I'm sure I need to give it a thorough cleaning. I suppose if it keeps giving me problems after I clean it I'll sell it and use the money towards something else. As a side not I only paid $100 for it so I know I can get that and maybe a little more out of it. I'll give you 125 sight unseen as it sits
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Post by wesb81219 on Apr 22, 2016 17:25:49 GMT -5
I just got a fouling scraper perhaps I'll give it a good cleaning this weekend and get some round balls for it and try it out
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Post by jackryan on Jun 14, 2016 0:15:16 GMT -5
Well I guess that's what you could say I'm doing is filling the flash channel. I didn't know that's what it is called. A wrong assumption by me. it fires every time I fill the flash channel so perhaps I am doing it correctly. I will more than likely get the mag spark 209 primer conversion eventually. if I can stop buying everything else for I want for hunting. heck I have a hard time keeping ammo because I have a shooting range set up in my back yard. Just get you some real powder when you use up that pyrodex stuff. FF should be plenty good in that gun.
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